Friday, August 10, 2012

Morris Tap and Grill- giving new meaning to The Pampered Chef

I was going to begin this entry by saying, "I don't get out often." That is completely untrue. I seem to be on the road all the time, as of late. I was ready to replace that sentence with the erroneous notion that "I rarely go out to eat." As you can see from the blog entries I made this summer, that, too, is untrue. Here it is broken down: I rarely make a determined effort to eat at a particular establishment. True story.


While planning a mini spa day with one of my BFFs, I found myself excited to make the suggestion that we have lunch at Morris Tap and Grill, on Route 10 in Randolph, NJ. MTG (as it's known by the "in" crowd) is led by my friend, Chef Eric Levine. He's a CIA grad, he was on Chopped (yes, he won!) and he's an industry leader (we've all copied his stuff) and he just authored a beautiful industry cookbook called Stick it, Spoon it, Put it in a Glass. Oh, and then there's the sorbet, Sotto Zero. He's partnering with the company on the Twisted flavors, which are alcohol infused and called fun names like "Drunken Mosquito", which I'm sure has a stinger of its own!

I told Eric we were planning on visiting and as it turns out, Tuesday was a good day for us to bug the chef, as it was a bit quieter. Let me tell you, I've heard MTG has a lot of beer. A. Lot. But, I don't drink beer and I was driving, so I have nothing to comment on. But, boy howdy, did we eat.

After greeting us, Eric asked how hungry my girlfriend and I were and we told the truth, very hungry. He asked our permission to "play" (ChefSpeak for : just send out whatever strikes his fancy aside from any ingredients that would be problematic). We would have been foolish to say no.

During the meal, Eric checked on us at least 4 times, came to say good-bye and on the way out, even took us to see the kitchen and meet his kitchen staff (so welcoming!). At that point, I was pretty food-drunk and would not have thought to ask to see the kitchen, as I kind of forgot I was a chef, not a princess. Giuseppe, our server was attentive and professional and friendly. I swear, there is such pleasure to be derived from being served by a man who is beyond his very early 20s. Please don't think I'm being discriminatory. A certain level of wisdom and experience makes all the difference in a captain. And Giuseppe is so polished. But let's get back to the food...
Eric sent out:
Mushrooms, Truffled Artichoke, Parmesan Flatbread- They make their own flatbread. Love it. This was delicious.
Sesame Tuna Tartare-This is probably my second favorite highlight of the meal (aside from seeing Eric). And I would have never pegged this, because of my nature. There was wasabi roe on the plate that both my companion and I love. Served with flour tortilla crisps and black sesame seeds, this dish is a texture-driven diners' (both of us are.) dream.
Buffalo Chicken Flatbread- We dug into this one last and it was a good thing. Just enough spice, but that spice would have dimmed the other dishes. Again, terrific and flavorful.
Crud! I forgot to take photos!
And then we discovered that I was so intent on shoveling the deliciousness into my mouth that I forgot to take pictures. So, here is the first picture of what Eric sent out:
 
We joked, "Eric, you've taken haute cuisine too far! Talk about small portions!
 
 
 
Trio of Hummus w/ Crisps- The presentation of this is so beautiful. It's worth saying again. They make their own fantastic flatbread.  The tiny Mason jars are filled with creamy traditional hummus, red pepper hummus and Kalamata hummus (hands-down fave). The garnish is snow pea sprouts. Eric said they are considered micro-greens and don't pose the same food safety risks as alfalfa sprouts. I wouldn't have cared if they were laced with arsenic, they are earthy goodness and I don't remember sharing them with my companion, but I do remember eating them all, with my fingers and forgetting I was out in public. (Giuseppe said not to worry. He told me, "Where I come from, eating is an art." Love you, G.)
 
 
Fusilli with Chicken Sausage and Portobellos (in the little pot) and Shrimp with Isreali couscous and sundried tomatoes- I was definitely food-drunk at this point and my tummy was getting full. Those shrimp were so plump and delicious and they were topped with fried leeks. The sausage had a salty edge that contrasted well with the tender pasta and the sweet mushrooms.

When you're a guest at MTG, after your entree plates are cleared, they entice you with a beautiful dessert cart. We got glimpses of S'mores and other sweet delights. I sweated a little, worried about having to choose one. I needn't have worried, Chef was taking care of us. No stress, No decisions. All good.
Eric sent out a dessert sampler. Oh my goodness. Left to right: Chocolate Mocha Cake with ribbons of ganache and light, but very flavorful mousse. Cantaloupe/ Lime Vodka Sorbet (my favorite part of the entire meal). Served on top of dehydrated pineapple slices (referred to as flowers or blossoms in the biz). I am still dreaming about the whole combination. I honestly think it was garnished with mint, but somewhere I got a whaft of basil on my palate and am now thinking of how I can make a pineapple basil sorbet. Let's not forget MTG's Carrot Cake, just as delicious as its neighbors, I love the garnish of fried carrots with white chocolate shavings. 
My companion and I were truly blessed to have Eric and the staff of Morris Tap and Grill pay us such undivided attention. He's a really busy guy with a lot of exciting projects going on. I'm loving the copy of his book that I purchased (and he was kind enough to sign). I can't wait to see where his journey continues to take him. Thank you, my friend.


Monday, August 6, 2012

Welcome to the Pathogen Station! Which will you be having?

The Mister and I had a very interesting experience at the pasta station of a buffet we recently visited. I guess the first question you'll want answered is, "What were you doing at a buffet?"
We were at the casino. Now, before you go about judging my well-managed vice of choice, let's understand that, if I, as a chef, who grew up in a kitchen in the 1980s survived with no STDs, no substance problems and I have successfully sustained a healthy marriage and family, then I am doing great. Slot machines be damned.
And buffets can be fine. They can even be glorious. The Paris, in Las Vegas is one of my all-time favorite places to eat because it houses a gorgeous European-style buffet. I am a grazer and a buffet allows me tiny portions of many tastes and textures.
But on this recent visit, to a local casino, I stood in front of an unmanned pasta station. When the cook Giancarlo arrived, he was gloved up and ready to go, or so I thought.
As I watched, I noticed that he had no tongs for any of his ingredients. So, even if I had alerted him to any food allergies (as a paper sign in front of his station instructed me) cross-contact would have still been a big problem when he dug his gloved patties into the broccoli after he touched my neighbor's shrimp.
But the worst part? After he plopped my fettucine into a pan, he took a paper napkin and wiped his mouth...In front of the guests...And then he didn't even change gloves, let alone wash his hands and then change gloves.
Not only did Gian not have tongs, but he didn't have a clean side towel to wipe his hands on in between ingredients. But, not to worry, he smeared his fingers on the front of his apron. And to clean the pans? A side towel, stored under a space on his station, appearing to never be rinsed out, let alone resting in a bucket of fresh, food-grade sanitizing solution.
My poor Mister. As I sat back down, I asked him, "When I see this stuff happen (and it does, more and more) am I supposed to send an email to the casine or am I supposed to talk to a manager right now?" Mister's vote was to email.
However, I couldn't help myself. A server found the manager, Michael, for me and he and I had a brief chat. I figured if I could prevent someone else from taking an extra portion of cross-contamination or a helping of pathogens it would be a good thing.
Michael was responsive. I'm not suer how he handled it in the end, because I didn't see a lot of corrections to the station while I was still there. I did however see Michael himself don gloves to refill the stack of dinner plates. Good move, Michael!
At the end of my meal, my ever-patient Mister said, "Geez, the casino's food service should bring you in to trouble shoot, or consult, or even be a mystery shopper or something!" I could hear his subtext..."so maybe I wouldn't have to hear it when we go out..." It's an idea.
Pay attention when you visit buffets, please.  Take a look around before you even commit by paying for your meal. For your own food safety.

Some corrective/proactive actions that could have been taken:
  • Make sure the employee has a clean apron and a supply of clean side towels for his hands and for handling those hot pans.
  • If there are two burners on the station, a supply of 6 or 8 pans that could be washed and sanitized or switched out after they are used would prevent both cross-contact and cross-contamination.
  • A bucket of sanitizing solution is handy for the wipe used to sanitize the station.
  • Tongs should be in each and every ingredient.
  • Sometimes, specially colored tongs are reserved for high-allergen ingredients or protein ingredients.
  • And by the way, it might be a wise idea to put a sign in front of the brownies identifying them as containing walnuts before someone has an allergic reaction.
How would you have handled this experience???

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Will I ever get decent Mexican food again??!!

I love Mexican food. There's very little of it to be found in my immediate local, so I usually end up making my own, which can be a lengthy process. Since I was going to Chicago, a place known for some great Mexican restaurants, my hopes soared. And then they quickly crashed. For a number of reasons, I did not get any Mexican while I in the Windy City.
But on my visit (that very same week) to Hoboken, NJ, there were a few Mexican places on Washington St. (the main drag). We picked a place called East LA. It was one of the most horrible dining experiences I have ever had.
  • The place was dimly lit. Usually this can be a sign of ambience...for us, it could have meant a few things: a)stay away, there's nothing good to see here OR b) Good thing it's dark, because you can't see how dirty the place really is.
  • The waiter was clueless about service. He was backed up by a really experienced waitress who was holding down the fort. Even though there were only a few patrons, that still looked like a big job for one woman.
  • The "margaritas that people rave over" made it to us while our companions were almost on their second drink round, and it was July, and it was hot. Really hot. When they arrived, it was clear that the reason people rave is because they get so sloshed on the added schnapps that the taste of the chemical slushee gets disguised. Yuck.
  • Not only was the guacamole flavorless, as soon as it hit my tongue, I got the tell-tale sign that it was literally spoiled. If it "sizzles" on your tongue, like an electrocuted piece of pineapple, don't eat it or Montezuma won't be the only one getting revenge.
  • 50% of The Mister's beef fajita was burned beyond being edible. Nuff said.
  • Even after (maybe especially) sending back the guacamole, the chicken and other ingredients on my plate were just not fresh tasting. Let's face it. We've all eaten leftovers of all shapes, sizes and ages from our refrigerators. When something isn't fresh, you really do know the difference. You just shouldn't be expected to pay for it, let alone eat it.
  • The waiter continued to be clueless and just chose to avoid our table, one of two occupied in the whole place.
Believe it or not, even as little as a few months ago, I would have suffered through this meal. I might have eaten it and denied my own thoughts (even though I have been cooking professionally for over 25 years). I might have not eaten it, but I would have never said a word to the server. But, thankfully, those days seem to be over. I am not willing to a) put something in my body that is less than tasty; b) take a risk of getting sick from someone else's poor food service and sanitation practices; c) pay good money that I've worked really hard to earn for food that someone else is trying to pawn off as good when it's surely not.  And neither should you.
In the end, the waitress ended up taking almost everything off the bill. When I got home, I looked at the receipt more clearly. Everything was taken off except the drinks and get this...the original offending guacamole. Oh, the irony of it all.

Who's the Cake Boss?

My son really wants to go to college at a school located in Hoboken. He's going to be a junior in high school, so we thought this was a perfect time to start visiting institutes of higher learning. And, what's really important when you're visiting a college in Hoboken? Noticing the splendid view of Manhattan and trying to sneak a visit to Carlo's Bakery in, while you're at it. Carlo's Bakery has been made famous by the television show, Cake Boss.

Truthfully, we rarely watch the show in my house because I cannot stand the staged drama. For example, who, in their right mind, would assign a brand-new, 18-yr.-old employee to transport a wedding cake by himself? Only someone who enjoys broadcasting the drama of the cake being dropped several stories down the service stairs. Makes me wanna breathe into a paper bag.

But, I couldn't resist the opportunity for adventure and a taste of the baked goods to see if the idea meets reality. As we approached, I felt pretty excited! The line was not long! Ohhh, but wait. That's just the roped-off line in front of the actual store. The "real" line, was located down the block, in front of the CVS. You had to get a ticket there (from the fabulous Mike--so helpful!) and wait until the line in front of the store moved INTO the store. Estimated time to get into store: 1 hour and 30 minutes. We figured we'd try it out, we could always jump out of line. As the Mister waited in line, I tried a different approach...
I really just wanted to look inside the store, so I tried without getting in line. When I climbed the stairs into the store, I was stopped by the "doorman" (read: bouncer) who was in his very early 20s. He wouldn't let me in, even after I explained that I was a professional and I just wanted to look. He told me that he would get in trouble for letting me in and they would know because "the cameras are watching." So, back to the line I went and I waited.
The girl in line in front of us was already holding a Carlo's box. "Why," I asked her, "are you standing in line, again?" She had just come from the factory (or kitchen), not the bakery. She explained that she had purposely made the trip to Hoboken, with family who were going to be in the area for another event. She tagged along and created her very own Cake Boss Adventure. That included a "cake decorating lesson". She's an experienced cake-decorating hobbyist and thought it would be fun. So, she went to the lesson, held at the factory in the Lackawanna Center (Grove St., Hoboken). Did she learn a lot? No. She received a pre-iced layer cake, to which she applied fondant (she did roll that) and fondant cut-outs (that she cut out). The 2-hour class was "taught" by an apprentice who had just won one of Buddy's spin-off shows. Cost: $125.
Mauro, making an appearance in the packed bakery.
But...back to the bakery... 
Once inside, the place is jam-packed like sardines in olive oil. Youngsters who are generally less-than-enthusiastic take your order and meet you at the register with it (Count on adding another 1/2 hour to your trip). You've either got to be really crafty at juggling the crowd to see into the cases or not afraid to take your time in the frenetic space that is Carlo's and ask a lot of questions, both difficult tasks. It's hard to hear the server, hard to see the goods and, by the way, NOTHING is labeled with prices. Kind of less-than-friendly. If you've grown up in NJ, you might not be as sensitive to this, but in my opinion, the Buddy Valastro of Cake Boss TV belies the personality of his actual place of business.
Our order and their reviews:
3 Lobster Tails @ $3.50 each...maybe a little pricey, for an everyday treat, but fine and tasty ($10.50)
6 Sprinkle Tarralli (a dry, "coffee cookie")...meh.                                                                       ($4.10)
Dark Mousse mini cake...melted (our fault), generally tasty but it was overpriced at                ($6.50)
1/4 lb. sesame cookies...again, not too sweet, tiny in size, really delicious because I love sesame!
                                                                                                                                                      (3.40)
2 pignoli meringues. These bad boys are about 2 1/2 inches around and were the hit of my day.
They almost felt like a bargain, respectively.                                                                                (2.40)
And a Vanilla Cupcake. I had to taste the cake. The cake itself was delicious and did not taste like it was from a mix. It had a fine, tight crumb and a good flavor. Priced fine at                                (2.25)

So, for about 30 bucks and a few hours, I'm glad we experienced the reality of Cake Boss. I won't clamber to get back in the store, but I don't feel like it was time wasted.

Our Chicago Dining Choices

Buckingham Fountain in Grant Park, Chicago
I took the dining recommendations of my friends, did some internet searches on those choices and even blocked them out on a map, so I could see where they were located in relation to where I was staying. That was a good plan. It helped narrow the field a bit.
My big sister and my newly-turned-21-yr.-old niece met me (they live in Indiana) and I knew that while we might want to walk a little, this trip really was about relaxation.
 

We began with Saturday lunch at The Taste of Chicago, held at Grant Park (at Jackson and Columbus). Some big changes were made for Taste 2012. They cut the festival run time in half, from it's usual ten days to five (lots of debate on both sides about that choice), moved it from the raucous time block of July 4 to the more laid back mid-July (I vote yea on that.) and trimmed the vendor attendance by 20 (I didn't think that was a good idea.). I thought the food was reasonable in price. $8 got you a strip of 12 tickets. At many stands, you could purchase a full portion or a tasting portion. My $16 got me 1 order of potstickers and 1 Pad Thai from Arun's pop-up stand, 1 less-than-ripe-and-delicious bruschetta, 1/2 a Billy Goat Cheeseburger (shared with my niece, no Pepsi! Coke!- I had to!) and a bottle of water. I wasn't impressed with the vendors. I expected less street festival and more real taste of Chi-Town. There was a lot of pizza. A lot. Not regretful that I went, but won't clamber to get back.
 


Fresh fish on display at Santorini, Chicago

For Saturday dinner, my nephew and some friends joined us and we took the party to Greektown. It was a hopping neighborhood and we took a table at the noisy (OPA!) Santorini, where we had a family-style meal. The meat was just a bit overcooked to my rare tastes, but I loved the Spanikotiropita (spinach and feta in phyllo) and Saganaki (flaming cheese), which is tastier than any fried mozzarella could want to be. Best of all was our waiter, George. An older, fun-loving Greek guy. He was the perfect combination of professional and don't-give-me-crap-I'm-not-your-dad.

Sunday breakfast turned into Sunday brunch, not just because of the timing (it's okay to sleep in/gab a lot when you're on holiday with your sister!) but from the sheer amount of food we consumed at The Bongo Room. (We chose the Wicker Park location, there are three.) Nary a bad review in site, this was an ideal spot to enjoy some extraordinary food at affordable prices, albeit in a popular, noisy, slightly crowded place. The wait is long, just like the reviews say and there's little shade to be had while you're waiting, but the wait is worth it. I am a protein eater, so I knew that eggs would be involved somewhere. I chose the BLT Benedict. Two delicious sourdough English muffins were lightly toasted and topped with baby spinach, applewood smoked bacon bits (so much easier to eat than strips, thank you), perfectly poached eggs and tomato-basil pesto hollandaise sauce. That sauce is the real deal. You can watch the cooking line and I found myself fondly reminiscing as I watched a brother-in-arms ladle the sauce from it's warm place above the stove. Pathogens, be damned! A heaping of hash browns mashed themselves up against the entree, but they didn't receive much attention because I had to save room for my dessert...The pancake.

The pancakes come in orders of three. They are 10 inches, each and some incorporate ingredients or combinations of ingredients not normally found in griddle cakes. The trick is to know that orders of these fluffy flap jacks can be brought in a lesser (but not smaller) portion. I had read this AND our friendly server also mentioned it. When I asked the server to help me choose between the Red Velvet Pancake and the Caramel White Chocolate Pretzel Pancake, she gave me an important and very accurate answer. "So many people order Red Velvet because they just loooove Red Velvet, but I think the Pretzel Pancake is just so much more flavorful," she said.

And she was right. I like Red Velvet, but I am always disappointed in the lack of chocolate flavor and my CWCPP was a carnival ride of flavor. I do not like white chocolate, but including it on this pancake was genius. While I am a pretzel lover, I find myself having texture issues when they are included in some dishes (keep those pretzel M&Ms-they're like malted milk balls!) and almost had a problem here, but then I'd crunch into a salty bit and forget my sorrows. The Bongo Room is not to be missed.
My sister and my niece enjoyed a croissant sandwich and a breakfast burrito, respectively.