Autumnal Bounty Dinner Party

"It is better to give than to receive." Sometimes I wonder about that adage. I believe the outcome depends upon which side you're on, the giving or the receiving. It's really just a matter of perspective. Last spring, AngelFood gave a gift certificate for a 6-course dinner party to the Moravian Academy. The gift certificate held a place at a massive silent auction during the Moravian Academy Ball (which was a blast!). It seemed like the certificate was lost amongst the many other entries vying for attention at the ball. Well, if it was lost, that evening it certainly got found. The winning bidder was a lovely lady from a town just up the road from us. After some discussion about food preferences, we developed a menu that we kept secret until that evening. On the menu: Butternut Ravioli in Walnut Sage Butter (photo on left) Wild Mushroom Cappuccino Baby Greens with Pomegranate Vinaigrette, 5-spice Pepitas and Goat Cheese (photo on right) Cranberry Thyme Sorbet (photo on left, served in cordial glasses with rainbow rock sugar and demitasse spoon) Roasted Rack of Lamb with Fig Relish, Pear (shaped)Potato Croquettes and Romanesco (photo on right. Romanesco is Roman Cauliflower.) Pear Tart with Brown Sugar Ice Cream and Balsamic Syrup It's an understatement to report that a good time was had by all. Although we did provide the gift certificate, we were far from the giving end of this event. When all of the AngelFood stars align and we're able to offer the impeccable service of beautiful food to gracious hosts and their appreciative guests, we feel as though we are the recipients of wonderful gifts.

It isn't easy being Green (Dotters)

From the Lincoln Trail District Area (Kentucky) Green Dot website (bold emphasis is my own): Hundreds of research studies have shown that thousands in the US and around the world are victims of sexual assault, partner violence, stalking or child abuse every year. Each incident hurts us all. These acts of violence are like red dots covering a map, much like an epidemic spreading out of control if not stopped. But, we CAN stop violence and you are a part of the solution. Through your words, your choices and your actions in any given moment, you can add a “Green Dot” to our map-displacing a red dot-and making a difference. A “Green Dot” symbolizes a single moment in time that can be used to end perpetration or support victims of violence. Adding a Green Dot will increase community safety for everyone. If each of us adds 1 or 2 or 5 or 100 green dots-we will begin to reduce violence in our community one green dot at a time. On October 18, AngelFood participated in the 16th Annual Culinary Carousel, which is an event held at Hawk Pointe Golf Club, featuring the area's best restaurants and chefs. The proceeds from ticket and silent auction sales benefits the Domestic Abuse and Sexual Assault Crisis Center of Warren County. We've participated in this event as part of the restaurant committee and preparing the evening's hor d'oeuvre for 4 years.

This year's menu featured Edible Green Dots! We served miniature Arancini (risotto balls being cooked on right) dipped in Pesto (get it, little green dots?!)

And then we began playing with Molecular Gastronomy. On the left are Cilantro Pearls made by combining pureed Cilantro with other food additives. The result are tiny pouches (as seen in the photo on left, suspended in their finishing liquid) of flavor that burst in your mouth. We used the Cilantro Pearls to garnish Crab Cakes on Wontons (as seen in the photo on the right). When all was said and done, we realized we could've used capers but the Cilantro Pearls were much more adventuresome and fun!

The biggest hit of the evening, were the Molecular Olives. We took really good, traditional green olives, on the left, (still the whole green dot theme!) and put them through the Molecular process (in their finishing liquid on right).

We presented the olives on our custom-made spoon display, spooning them on right in front of guests (and fellow chefs) who were amazed by the texture and intense flavor!

We're happy to report that the event raised around $44, 000 for the shelter, helping to provide a place of refuge and safety for victims.

It's not easy being green. It's not easy taking steps towards ending violence. It's not easy speaking out or standing up for the lookout. Like creating Molecular Gastronomy, the process is arduous, time-consuming and frustrating. But as each small goal gets met and each small triumph is made, the results are truly amazing.

In May, I graduated from the one-day Green Dot Training. I wear my t-shirt proudly, helping to spread the message that "No one has to do everything, but everyone must do something" to put an end to violence.

Great is my Thankfulness

As printed in the Washington Messenger, November 2010

I practice living daily with an attitude of gratitude and I truly have countless reasons to be grateful. This year, however, I am made painfully aware of some of my most heartfelt thanks. I am grateful to my grandmother, Romaine. Grammy, as we called her, passed away this August, about 6 weeks shy of her 100th birthday. (She's the baby in the center of the photo on the left. How much fun is Pappy having??) Like everyone else, I dislike funerals. But if I could eulogize a life well lived with anyone, I was okay celebrating this woman’s life with this branch of my family. Grammy (on the right, enjoying a party with her BFF) was the type of woman who, on the spur of the moment, one morning at eight o’clock am, produced homemade fastnachts from a newspaper recipe because her grandkids asked her to. She kept a huge bowl of pie crumbs in the cupboard (for whenever she needed them) and never admonished anyone for taking a quick dip out of the bowl. When you slept over, there were two breakfast choices…cornflakes or Oreo cookies. Guess which one I chose? She provided a place for us to run free, secure in the notion that after a long day of play, there would be a nice dinner on the table, a warm bath, candy dishes that were perpetually full and lots of hugs and kisses. Grammy was the type of woman who, after losing her husband of 25 years to Type II diabetes on December 23 insisted on continuing our annual ritual of gathering on Christmas Eve. It was better to celebrate life surrounded by those you love rather than mourn alone, realizing, as in most cases, that our gain really is greater than our loss. On right: One of the greatest moments of my life, taking Grammy to lunch after her first grandchild graduated from college at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America. I think she deserved a nice lunch after all the meals she prepared.

So, this month, I’ll share a pie recipe that perhaps you can enjoy at your table of thanks. I’m sorry to report that it’s not her recipe because she didn’t use any recipes for pie. In a perfect world, you’ll take a bit of quiet time for yourself and while you’re attempting to get the dough the way you want it and the crumbs “just so” you’ll contemplate love, freedom and all the gains that outweigh your losses. Pear and Hazelnut Crumb Pie Easy Pie Crust: 1 cup all purpose flour 1/3 cup cake flour 1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces 2 tablespoons chilled solid vegetable shortening, cut into 1/2-inch pieces 3 tablespoons (or more) ice water Blend first 4 ingredients in processor. Add butter and shortening and cut in using on/off turns until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 3 tablespoons ice water and process until moist clumps form, adding more water by teaspoonfuls if dough is dry. Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap in plastic; refrigerate 1 hour. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Keep refrigerated. Soften dough slightly at room temperature before rolling out.) Roll out dough disk on floured surface to 12-inch round. Transfer to 9-inch-diameter Filling : 1/2 cup (packed) golden brown sugar 2 tablespoons all purpose flour 1 tablespoon butter, melted 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 3 pounds ripe Anjou pears, peeled, cored, cut into 3/4-inch pieces (about 5 cups) Topping: 3/4 cup all purpose flour 1/2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, room temperature 3/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted, husked, coarsely chopped For filling: Stir first 6 ingredients in large bowl. Add pears and toss to coat. For topping Whisk flour, sugar and cinnamon in medium bowl. Add butter and rub in with fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal. Mix in nuts. Preheat oven to 375°F. Spoon pear filling into pie crust. Sprinkle topping evenly over filling. Bake pie 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F. Continue baking pie until pears are tender and filling is bubbling thickly, covering edges with foil if crust is browning too quickly, about 1 hour 5 minutes longer. Cool pie on rack at least 2 hours. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature. Makes 1 (9-inch) pie. Source: epicurious.com

The Bahrain Challenge

I'm happy to report that AngelFood has been so busy that it seems I've had a hard time lifting myself out of the steamy kitchen to catch up with the world. But the world keeps on turning!

While I was cooking, I received a message from my younger sister, Audrey, a surgeon in the Navy who is currently waiting in the Kingdom of Bahrain for another ship to pick her up. It's not that she makes a habit out of hanging out in foreign countries, hoping to hop aboard a floating vessel. She was actually fulfilling time aboard the USS Elrod in the Gulf of Aden.

In the photo, right, Audrey is on the far right, armed with pan spray. This crew is baking cookies for 360 sailors from the recipes we sent them.

Her message said: Hey I have an AFPCS (AngelFood PCS) challenge for you. We are in Bahrain and we are trying to cook/eat on the local economy. The good news is that the foodstuffs here are GREAT. The bad news is that all we have to cook with is a gas grill and a microwave. Any meal suggestions? We've already done burgers, baked potatoes, fajitas and chicken.

She knows how I love a challenge. I wish she could get her hands on a crock pot. Then she'd really be in business. But for now, AngelFood is going to answer the call! The first dish I thought of was pizza. Here's a recipe from the book Grilling written by CIA (that's my alma mater, The Culinary Institute of America, not the government agency).

They recommend grilling the onions for the pizza before you begin. You can use uncooked sweet onions like Vidalia or Walla Walla. The tomato sauce you use should not be too watery.

Grilled Pizza

Makes 1 to 8 servings (we like pizza)

2 1/2 tsp active dry yeast

2 cups warm water

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup semolina flour, plus extra for dusting

1 Tbsp. salt

1/4 cup olive oil

1 1/2 cups tomato sauce

2 cups grated mozzarella

1/4 cup diced sauteed onions

2 Tbsp. basil chiffonade

Combine the yeast and water in a bowl and stir to dissolve. Let the mixture sit until a thick foam forms.

Add the flours and salt to the yeast and stir by hand, or mix on medium speed in an electric mixer using the dough hook attachment, until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a second bowl that has been lightly oiled. Cover the dough with a clean kitchen towel and let rest at room temperature until nearly doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours.

Gently fold the dough over and allow it to rise for another 45 minutes.

Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.

Roll or stretch the dough into a 12-inch round. Lightly dust a 12-inch pizza pan with semolina flour and lay the dough round on top. Brush some of the olive oil over the entire dough round.

Lift the dough from the pan and place the pizza dough directly on the grill with the oiled side face-down. Brush the dough with the remaining olive oil. Grill the pizza until the dough is maked and puffs up slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip the pizza over and spread the sauce evenly over the round, leaving a 1/2-inch border around the outside edges. Evenly sprinkle the cheese over the sauce and top with the onions. Close the lid on the grill. Cook the pizza until the crust is golden brown and the cheese is slightly brown and bubbly, about 2 to 3 minutes more.

Remove the pizza from the grill and sprinkle the basil chiffonade on top. Cut the pizza into 8 slices and serve immediately.

Just a couple of notes: Audrey can get pizza in a cone at the movies in Bahrain. It's called Kono Pizza and is from a licensed Italian Franchise. She says it's baked perfectly and is delicious. I hope she's not tired of pizza.

AngelFood recently catered a party at the Musconetcong Watershed Association and got to talking with our friend, Assemblyman John DiMaio about grilling pizza. (That's him on the left, enjoying an Antipasta Brochette) He's been making grilled pizza a lot this summer. His advice to Audrey? "Tell your sister to make sure the grill top is closed and the grill is turned on high. You want to get the temperature up to about 400 degrees. I use a pizza stone and it turns out great. You just gotta make sure the grill is good and hot."

Sometimes, at home, for a quick, tasty, thick pizza sauce, I use a can of tomato paste, seasoned and slightly thinned with water. I like the sweetness of the paste and the thickness can be adjusted to taste.

What do you think Audrey should be making with her microwave and grill? More ideas and recipes to come!

Spice is the Variety of Life

Our friend Denise writes: Dear Chef Jewels, I am wondering if you can make any suggestions for what I can make using these spices: Baharat spice and Ras el Hanout. I'm dying to use them...thanks! I am very familiar with Ras el Hanout. It is a popular spice blend used across Northern Africa, especially Morocco. The name Ras el Hanout translates to "top of the shop" as it represents the best spices a shopkeeper has to offer. Like curry, there is no set-in-stone recipe for Ras el Hanout, everybody's got their preferred, sometimes top secret formula. Some ingredients still foreign to the Western world such as ash berries, orris root and chubebs are in the recipe but around here you'll find Ras el Hanout containing spices such as cinnamon, cumin, cardamom, cloves and chili peppers, to name a few. It can be used on almost all foods, as meat rubs and even stirred into rice. I'm not sure if this liberal use is attributed to the spice's taste or because it's sometimes considered an aphrodisiac! Baharat is a blend I am unfamiliar with, so I did a bit of research. Baharat is more Turkish, Arabic and/or Iranian. Turkish Baharat contains a fair amount of mint. You might also find cassia (cinnamon), cardamom, allspice, pepper, cloves and cumin. It is used to flavor soup, lamb, chicken, fish and beef. Sometimes it is used as a condiment to add flavor to food after cooking, also. Lebanese Lamb and Bean Stew 1 lb dried navy beans, picked over and rinsed 2 lb boneless lamb shoulder or boneless leg of lamb, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baharat* or 1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick 9 cups water 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium onions, chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 teaspoons salt 3/4 teaspoon black pepper 3 tablespoons tomato paste Accompaniments: spiced basmati rice, pita bread

Cover beans with cold water by 3 inches in a bowl and soak at room temperature at least 8 hours. Drain well in a colander. Bring lamb, baharat, and water (9 cups) to a boil in a 6- to 8-quart heavy pot, then vigorously simmer mixture, covered, until meat is almost tender, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Add beans and cook, uncovered, until beans are tender, about 1 hour more. Meanwhile, heat oil over moderate heat in a 12-inch heavy skillet until hot but not smoking, then cook onions, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper, stirring, until onions are pale golden and tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. When beans are tender, stir in tomato-onion mixture and simmer until just heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Makes 8 servings. Source: epicurious.com Chicken with Figs in Ras el Hanout and Couscous 6 whole chicken leg-thigh pieces (about 4 1/2 pounds total) 1 tablespoon salt plus additional for seasoning 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided 12 baby carrots, peeled 1 cup shallots, peeled, halved (about 4 large) 3 garlic cloves, peeled 1 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme plus additional for garnish 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel 2 tablespoons ras-el-hanout 3 cups low-salt chicken broth 3/4 cup dry white wine 14 Brown Turkey figs, halved 2 teaspoons Sherry wine vinegar Couscous (prepared according to package directions) Arrange chicken on rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle each side of each piece with 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cover with plastic wrap and chill overnight. Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Transfer chicken to skillet and sear until golden, 5 to 6 minutes per side. Transfer chicken to heavy roasting pan, skin side up. Add carrots, shallots, garlic, 1 teaspoon thyme, lemon peel, ras-el-hanout, chicken broth, white wine, and remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil to skillet. Bring to boil, whisking up brown bits. Pour mixture over chicken in roasting pan and bring to simmer over medium heat. Cover with foil; place in oven. Braise 1 hour, until tender. Transfer chicken, carrots, and shallots to baking sheet; discard garlic. Pour pan juices into large saucepan. Spoon off fat from surface. Boil juices until reduced to 1 3/4 cups, whisking occasionally, about 18 minutes. Add figs and vinegar; cook until figs are just heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Place cooked couscous on large plate. Top with chicken, vegetables, and figs. Spoon sauce over chicken and figs. Garnish with fresh herbs and serve immediately. Makes 6 servings. Source: epicurious.com

Maintaining Your Edge

A question from our friend, Carole:

Dear Chef Quelly,

I made the investment many years ago to get a few good kitchen knives. I got a honing steel with the big knife, (and even a video to teach me how to use it), but I think it's time for a professional sharpening. I can even see little nicks in the blade when I look closely. Is this the right answer and if so, any idea where I can get it done locally? Appreciate your insights.

Well, here are my initial insights. I hate sharpening my knives. I have always been too impatient to do the job, but it's a necessary practice as a good cook.

But, moving on...A sharp knife may help prevent fatigue and accidents, as you put less effort into getting hard foods cut. A sharp knife is nicer to your food as it does not bruise before cutting onions and garlic (and have you ever made sauce when you only want to dice a tomato?).

Those little nicks are called micro-serrations and can be helpful, aggresive cutters--if you're slicing rope, which you are not. Sometimes you can see a dull edge. Under bright light, a dull knife, nicks and burrs will reflect a glint. A sharp knife will not.

I have a basic 2-sided (2 different grits) bench stone purchased at a hardware store. In a different stone I purchased, came a little plastic 20 degree wedge that I could use to guide my knife while stroking on the stone, which helped me get the correct angle (my biggest problem). Maybe you know a woodworker or handy person who can make you a tiny wedge. It's a great tool. Sharpening guides can also be purchased, but they do take up some room on the stone.

Once you start to sharpen, you should see that you are removing just the edge. Steel naturally forms a burr, a thin bendable projection on the edge. You might see or feel the burr. It will be on the side opposite to the one you are grinding. As you become more proficient, you'll be looking for a smaller and smaller burr. Sharpen both sides evenly. When you see the burr, use the finer grit stone to remove the coarse marks left by the coarse stone. A finished edge is sharper and more durable. A steel is used after and in between sharpening removes the burr.

Control your sharpening angle, sharpen until a burr is raised and then hone that burr to a fine finish.

I can definitely support the notion of professional grinding. With good steel knives, it is more difficult to achieve and keep an edge, but the knife will stand up to a lifetime of use and sharpening. I do not support the grinding of knives by anyone but an experienced professional, especially if you might be heartbroken by a damaged knife. Once whittled, you can never go back.

I telephoned my friend and stylist, Penny Deemer, owner of Copper's Salon for professional sharpening recommendations. She's been sending her scissors out to the same man, Mr. Smith for 26 years. He returns your tools the next day and does much of the finishing and honing by hand. Penny said, "Mr. Smith will tell you which knives will be worth it and which will not. Some [knives and scissors] hold [an edge] and some don't. Jewels, I still have the same pair of scissors I was using in beauty school. I can still use them." Mr. Smith can be reached at 908-722-4941.

Carole, after you and I both employee Mr. Smith, I think we should have a quarterly neighborhood knife sharpening party, just to maintain our edge.

Taking the chips out of Salsa...

I’ve been enjoying salsa a lot lately, but not the kind that I dip tortilla chips in. I’ve been doing a Zumba class, quite regularly, at the gym. In case you’re unfamiliar, Zumba pairs ballroom dance steps with Latin rhythms and driving beats to provide a great workout. The hour flies by. I’m a pretty good dancer to begin with, although I do occasionally do the steps backwards because I watch the instructor in the mirror. Our instructor, Laura is talented and energetic. She is friendly to her students; she has a beautiful smile with a slightly devilish twinkle in her eye. And let’s face it; she’s got a killer figure. I’ve come to notice that many of the basic principles of Laura’s Zumba class can be applied to cooking, especially if you’re a beginner. If the principle is in bold, capital letters, please imagine it to be Laura screaming, because this is what I hear. (Incidentally, the thought of Laura screaming at us is comical, because she’s so kind. Sometimes she hollers directions and then giggles.) Don’t be afraid to refer to or defer to an expert There’s no shame in following a recipe until you're comfortable or asking the help of someone more experienced than you for assistance with your technique. That’s what we’re here for. We want you to enjoy this as much as we do. We also want to be good examples and you keep us sharp. (Seriously, I would not mind being as fit as Laura one day.) Keep it fresh, mix it up As soon as I seem to get one routine and or song down, Laura plays a different routine. After I stumble around the first few beats, I find myself getting in the groove. You might make the fluffiest scrambled eggs in the East, but after you get that technique down, it’s time to move on to omelettes. WATCH YOUR CORE!!! “Ugh. Do I have to suck in my abs again?” May translate to, “Ugh, I hate chopping!” True, but your core skills and core disciplines are what will help you produce wonderful foods and then advance to the next level. You may even notice that you hate chopping because your knives are dull (core discipline) or the onion falls apart (core skill- there is one for round, semi-hard foods). Learn them. KEEP MOVING!!! Practice makes pretty darned good. During each session, if you’re lucky enough to be able to pay attention, you’ll find yourself improving your form and knowledge base. We all “miss the beat” sometimes. Sometimes, we forget ingredients or we screw up the technique. Other times, the recipe can be seriously flawed but we don’t figure that out until we are much more confident in our skills or we’ve tried it several times. So be it. When Laura has a routine that doesn’t go smoothly, she just matter-of-factly says, “I didn’t like that one very much” and moves on. When she misses the beat, she smiles, giggles and shrugs. We all dance to our own beat, after all and it is for fun. THE MUSIC DIDN’T TELL ME TO CHANGE STEPS!!! Find your own beat. Do your best to pay attention. One Sunday, Laura was on fire! We drilled and moved and sweated! More importantly many of her lessons revolved around listening to the music and letting it tell you when and what to do. I pay careful attention because that Laura is tricky!! Just when I think she’s going to do one step (because she did it that way last week) she’ll mix it up (and smile when she tricks me-I stand in the front of the room). In cooking, as you progress, you may encounter a recipe that directs your technique one way but your instincts say something else. You may try to premeditate what will happen. Try your way and see what happens, or not. It’s about finding your way and being able to distinguish the times you know best, the times you should follow the directions and how to combine the two to collaborate. And Laura’s best scream of all: I DIDN’T GET THIS WAY OVERNIGHT!!! Well, that’s good to know, Laura, because that means there’s hope for all of us. But it’s the truth. Nothing good comes for free and if the outcome is a fun experience that results in a delicious dish, then I think it’s worth it. Don’t you?

What happens when I go into the grocery store...

As a personal chef, I spend a lot of time in the grocery store. For instance, this weekend I went to the store twice and the farm market once in only two days' time. Even if I didn't cook professionally, since I cook for my family, I would still probably spend more than my fair share of time in the store. Some days, the thought of running to the store can reduce me to tears. The thought of interrupting my flow to grab a vital ingredient that I didn't think to buy the first time is frustrating. You see, I used to work in retail. I was the bakery manager and then a customer service/cash office rep for the busiest store in a middle-sized chain. Retail is a tough industry. As we'd say in the biz, "Retail is a dog". After work, when I would shop it would never fail; even if I were dressed in chef's clothes, shopping in a whole different store, people would stop me as if I worked in that store and ask me where they could find such and such...If I was in a good mood, I'd help them. If I was tired, I'd point out that I didn't work there. Since owning and operating AngelFood, I've changed my perspective. I've learned that along the way my approachability factor has increased even more (!) and if I want to celebrate my life in the media then I've got to get used to seeing folks I know in the store and making new friends there is inevitable. Take this Saturday. Scene: the produce aisle where I get lots of "new friend action". The sweetest man in his late 40s said, "Ma'am, can you please help me? My wife sent me to the store with a wish list and I'm having trouble with a few items." How could I not help him?! He only wanted to please his wife. She wanted butternut squash, "but she wants the cut up kind." I hope he went home and pretended he found it all on his own. He deserves that much. A lady saw me piling 3 pounds of wax beans into a bag and asked me what I was going to do with the beans. We had a lovely 5 minute lecture on the beans. Turns out she sounds like quite a cook. She was hosting a party and serving roasted chicken with mango chutney. This was a perfect time for me to transition (albeit slowly) from summer vacation mode back to cooking/food media personality and come out of hiding. The new rule is that everybody who approaches me gets a business card because we all could use a little help in the grocery store. What are your grocery adventures like?

Casual Cake

Contributing something to share at potluck celebrations puts a chef between a rock and a hard place. Can't I be like every other guest? Can't I bring a new recipe that looks good, but is still in the experimental stages? What happens when I want to bring a delicious cake without getting out the cadre of pastry bags and piping tips to create the next cover shot of Martha Stewart's Living? Oh, no! The cake might even be a bit uneven and crumby around the edges (as usually happens with the chocolate cake). Well, I just take a deep breath and let it be.

Lately, I've been really enjoying recipes in which seasonal ingredients (mainly fruits) can be interchanged. I've also been experimenting with Splenda. I have realized that there is a chemical edge to Splenda that I'm not completely sold on. I have also been substituting Splenda for sugar at about 2/3 of the called for measurement. Splenda did pretty well in this recipe from epicurious.com. I made the recipe into muffins and left off the sugar topping (I would generally use turbinado or raw sugar for extra crunch). The fruit is definitely interchangeable and I would recommend this recipe for all seasons. If keeping buttermilk on hand is an issue, you can purchase powdered buttermilk or make your own by placing a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice in whole milk.

Raspberry Buttermilk Cake

1 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 stick unsalted butter, softened 2/3 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar, divided OR

1/2 cup Splenda for batter only 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 large egg 1/2 cup well-shaken buttermilk 1 cup fresh raspberries (about 5 ounces)

Preheat oven to 400°F with rack in middle. Butter and flour a 9-inch round cake pan (or prepare a 6-piece cupcake pan with paper liners). Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Beat butter and 2/3 cup sugar with an electric mixer at medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes, then beat in vanilla. Add egg and beat well. At low speed, mix in flour mixture in 3 batches, alternating with buttermilk, beginning and ending with flour, and mixing until just combined. Spoon batter into cake pan, smoothing top. Scatter raspberries evenly over top and sprinkle with remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar. Bake until cake is golden and a wooden pick inserted into center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool in pan 10 minutes, then turn out onto a rack and cool to warm, 10 to 15 minutes more. Invert onto a plate.

Makes 6 servings (or 6 cupcakes).

Being a Primitive Gourmet

I heard, through a friend, about the wine berries and black raspberries growing wild in a local park, just waiting to be picked. Even though temps had reached the 80's by 8 am, I considered this to be a low cost, high yield adventure to take my daughter on. The bushes did not disappoint.

Upon arriving at the park, we found the grass was dewy and undisturbed. We kicked up a lot of bugs, sweated profusely, collected hundreds of tiny burrs that bejeweled our play clothes and got scratched numerous times traversing the brambles for the best berries. We had a great time. We're tough women. Our Pennsylvania Dutch foremothers have been delivering babies while picking potatoes for centuries. Between the lively conversation and delicious snacking, we didn't even notice the conditions.

We took with us our gallon-sized Easter bucket that has a plastic handle. We filled it half way, giving us a yield of 2 quarts, or 8 cups.

I learned this about being a Primitive Gourmet: I believe that a certain satisfaction was removed from food preparation when full-on grocery stores became prevalent. My whole day was filled of thoughts regarding these berries; getting them, treating them (I gently placed them in a metal colander in a sink full of water, twice and gently swished to remove as much debris and bugs as I could), using them and then eating them. We take our food for granted nowadays.

Profoundly Satisfying Turnovers

4 cups of berries, 1/2 cup honey, 1/2 cup sugar, juice of 1/2 lemon, 1 Tablespoon cornstarch. Mix together.

1 package puff pastry dough, cutting each sheet in 4 or 8 pieces (squares). Using a slotted spoon, put a spoonful of the berries on the lower half of each square. Fold top over bottom and seal with the tines of a fork. Brush with beaten egg and bake at 450 degrees until golden and puffed. We topped ours with leftover icing while still warm.

Juicy, rustic, fantastic. Slow down and love your food.

Put Your Eggs in One Basket

I would eat them in a box. I would eat them with a fox. I would eat them here and there. I would eat them anywhere. Yes, those eggs are green. They come from my sister, Carol's hens in Indiana and they were delicious.

Eggs are the perfect food and they are even more perfect in the summer. Simmering them does not heat up the whole kitchen and they come in their own container. Egg salad makes a terrific summer dinner, cool and creamy, packed with protein. Deviled eggs make you the popular guest at any picnic.

Here's the basic recipe, which can be increased easily:

Deviled Eggs

6 peeled, hard-cooked eggs, cut in half ,lengthwise, with the yolks removed. Mash yolks with fork. Stir in 1/4 cup mayonnaise, 1/2 tsp. ground mustard. Salt and Pepper to taste.

We gas up our eggs at home with vinegar, horseradish and sometimes Wasabi. We top them with freshly chopped parsley or crisp, homemade bacon bits, as seen on the photo on the left.

What's the secret to those pretty piped eggs? Mashing the yolks when the eggs are freshly cooked, still at room temperature. Also, using a large pastry tip will prevent any yolk lumps from getting lodged in the tip's decorating edges. We've never seen pre-cooked, cold eggs produce lump-free filling.

One more tip: Keep the whites clean by placing the garnish in the palm of one of your hands and sprinkling the garnish with your other fingertips, like fairy dust.

A Moooooving Experience

In observance of Earth Day, my Express-Times assignment was to write about making your home menus more Earth Friendly. Through various channels, I was connected to local farmers and experts on sustainable food. My favorite, by far, was Farmer John Place, owner of Keepsake Farm in Northampton, PA.

While the newspaper interview only contained a bite of the conversations I had with Place, the information he provided in order to educate me, has reached far and wide. I extended our conversation to a radio interview, which will be broadcast on May 30 at 8 am on WNTI and I even went to Keepsake for a visit just to try raw milk for myself.

The important piece of the puzzle is that I have been skeptical about the safety of raw milk for years. It is illegal to sell raw milk in New Jersey but I have friends that either cross the border into PA (easy for me) or go underground to get their supply, exercising loopholes and keeping the farmers' names and locations under their hats. But Farmer John was convincing. He described conditions that he was privvy to in the corporate farming world that disagreed with raising healthy animals and food supplies. So, he raises his animals differently, is smart about it and is open to speaking about the experience and the resulting benefits. He's putting a new face on farming.

Millie and I took a sunny Saturday morning to drive about 35 miles to his farm. His own mama, Mrs. Place, mans the dairy store on the weekends and is a perfect hostess. An educator by profession, Mrs. Place was warm and welcoming and had answers to our many consumer questions. In the photo below, Mrs. Place introduces Millie to Walter, one of the luckiest milk-drinking cats in the world.

Here are some of the things you notice about Keepsake Farm: You notice the smell of grass and cows, just enough to let you know you're on a farm. The store is spotless and well-labeled. The window from the store into the milking room displays an immaculate salon full of happy cows who have the most beautiful coats you could imagine.

The best part about Keepsake (in my opinion) is that Farmer John keeps calves and mamas together from birth on. In the past two weeks alone, he's had 5 births on the farm. The calves all stand outside the pasture gate waiting for their moms to "get off of work" and come out and play in the pasture.

My purchases included 2 gallons of whole, raw milk, the most delicious honey vanilla drinkable yogurt, a pound of hamburger, a few dozen eggs, a chicken and some chicken backs for soup. On my initial swig, the milk had a more natural taste, which quickly dissipated (much to my dismay). Because it contains the natural cream, the milk must be shaken. The texture is wonderful and my appetite has never been so satisified as it has in the weeks since I've been drinking raw milk.

We enjoyed the hamburger on Mother's Day. I think I could have made 5 3-ounce patties, instead of the 4 4-ounce patties I grilled. The meat, while extremely low in fat, tastes very rich and satisfies quickly. I also enjoyed eggs for breakfast. The shells are super-durable and the yolks are rich and flavorful. I can't wait to prepare the chicken.

Since I've become a raw milk devotee, I've been surprised by the number of my Jersey friends who get a hopeful look in their eye when the ask where I get my supply. It has more of a following than I imagined. Thanks, Farmer John.

Use it or Lose it

There are times when my freezers (2) and my refrigerators (equal to 3) are so full of food and ingredients that extreme measures must be taken. Last week was one of those times. I told the Mister, "I have so much food available that I am not even going to the grocery store. You may need to stop by for cold cuts for your lunch and we may need a milk, but I even have fruits and vegetables." Stored or hoarded food ingredients are just like other stuff. As they accumulate needlessly they sap our energy and it gets easier and easier to lose focus of what is really available just in front of our noses. So, we just go out and buy more. The problem with food is that it rots and that's very wasteful, which really grates me. So, when the time comes that we need a flac jacket to open refrigerator doors, here's what I do. I either pick ingredients that I can identify or choose a whole shelf and see what I can come up with. If the packages are mysterious and unidentifiable I select about 4 or 5 and hope for the best. Last nights UILI meal (my dad joined us) was Beef Tenderloin for 3, Chicken Parm for the kids, sauteed yellow squash and zucchini (fresh-I do not freeze summer squash because it gets too watery), bruschetta and crackers and fresh strawberries and cream for dessert. Tonight's meal looks like it's going to be Tilapia topped with creamy spinach and Green Beans with Thyme, Bacon, Shallots and onions. I even have some fresh rolls to go with it. At first I was concerned that my family would whine about UILI meals. The reality is that they kind of dig it. It's gotten to be an adventure we all embark on together and the meals usually turn out well. And there was even the one night we thought we were going to be eating Black Bean Soup and it turned out to be Chocolate Icing. What kid complains about THAT?! What great meals have you created from surprises?

Going Green

I had to train myself to eat vegetables in the first place. I have a well-trained sweet tooth, which often does not lend itself well to vegetable consumption since many vegetable have a complex flavor profile with clear bitterness. But for the sake of raising children with well-rounded palates and for the countless health benefits vegetables offer, I did it. I bought the veggies, I prepared them and I ate them. The best news is that I really got to love them. Not in a "Boy, I'm craving some lima beans right now" kind of way, but I love their flavors and textures and the way they make my body feel after I eat them. Plus, they look really pretty on a plate. As winter moved into spring, I felt it was time to get back on the semi-abandoned vegetable wagon and I chose to embark on an adventure with baby bok choy. Bok choy (in this case I have chosen mini-size so an entire head is as long as an extended hand) is a mild flavored Chinese cabbage with ever-so-slightly better leaves and crunchy, ever-so-slightly sweet stalks. It's an ideal flavor profile for someone like me whose grown up tastebuds do not need anymore sweet encouragement and are not quite bitter lovers. Bok choy always makes me think of hydration since the stalks and leaves are full of moisture that just seems to drench my tongue. I slice the entire vegetable in stir-fry. It can also be used in soups or simply steamed. You can also braise it in broth and it will neither lose its shape or flavor nor lend any harsh flavors to the broth you're preparing. This is a dish I threw together for dinner last night using bits and pieces of food from my freezer and refrigerator: Shrimp stir fried with bok choy, snow peas and mushrooms. It was satisfying and delicious. What vegetable please your palate?

Pasta Stay-Cation Last year, AngelFood donated a gift certificate to the United Way of Warren County. The gift certificate was used at a silent auction in a combined package that added up to a Stay-Cation; things to be enjoyed at home instead of away. The winner of the package recently called to redeem her gift certificate and we decided that her Gourmet Meal for Two would be delivered the day she and her husband returned from their real vacation of scuba diving in Belize. (Talk about a hard act to follow!) The menu: Baby Spinach with Hearts of Palm and Toasted Pine Nuts with Citrus Vinaigrette, Fresh Rolls and Butter, and Lobster Ravioli with an Americaine-style sauce, Fresh Lemon Asparagus. All topped off with Strawberry Frangipane Tart drizzled with Chocolate Ganache. Taking time out of an otherwise non-cooking Saturday to cook an elaborate meal for two persons does have its downside. There are a bunch of dishes to do and there's a bunch of food prep to do. The upside is that it is a chance to slow down and create some beautiful food and the leftovers allowed my family to enjoy a stay-cation of their very own. You see, lately I have had a hard time with food. I feel weary of thinking of it, shopping for it, smelling it, eating it and dealing with using up what's left over. I don't even find myself hungry most days and that can lead to poor nutritional choices. The end of winter has seemed like an uphill food struggle. But, I persevered and got to making pasta! I almost always ONLY use semolina flour. I have, in emergencies, used all-purpose flour, but have found A.P. flour to produce a dough that is too soft. The key to pasta flour is having the correct moisture level. The flour must have enough moisture to allow the gluten (protein) to develop and that's what give it its stretch. Not enough moisture equals tough, crumbly dough. Too much makes a sticky mess that is unmanageable. I use the recipe on the bag of semolina from Bob's Red Mill. Here it is (the instructions are mine): Basic Pasta Recipe: 1 1/2 cups Semolina Flour 1/2 tsp. salt, optional (I think not optional. I always use it.) 2 eggs or 3 egg whites, beaten (I always use whole eggs for the fat and protein in the yolk) 2 Tbsp. water 2 Tbsp. olive oil Combine semolina and salt. Beat the eggs with the water and oil. Either in a mixing bowl or on a clean, dry table, make a well in the center of the flour. Add the wet ingredients and mix to make a stiff dough. Knead about 10 minutes or until dough is elastic. If after 10 minutes, the dough still has a lot of flour grains and is not elastic, you probably need to add a bit more water, in DROPS. Wrap dough in a towel or plastic wrap and let rest 20 minutes. On a lightly floured surface (I don't usually need extra semolina for this step), roll out to desired thickness and cut as desired. For the ravioli, I end up rolling to a thickness of 5 on the Atlas Machine (by hand-crank). This is a tough call. I would like to EAT ravioli rolled all the way to 6, but getting the ravioli to survive the process with that thin of a skin might not happen.

To fill the ravioli, I took two small lobster tails, removed from the shells-SAVED the shells, and made a forcemeat by pureeing in the food processor with seasoning and heavy cream until it was paste. I could have added a bit of white bread crumbs to lighten the texture and maybe an egg or even ricotta cheese. In this case, I did not. I take the pasta sheet and gently fold it in half. I then cut it. You'll see why. I then mark the first sheet with one of my many ravioli cutters. The pasta sheet needs to be very lightly brushed with egg wash so the pockets seal properly. GREAT TIP: Fill a pastry or plastic bag with the filling (cut corner off of plastic bag) and squeeze out the filling where needed. I put a dollop of filling on the marked areas of the pasta sheet. Don't overfill or the ravioli will burst when they are being simmered. Lay the other pasta sheet over (See, isn't that a nice fit?) and cut out. While the pasta was resting, I created the sauce. I took the lobster shells (I also save shrimp shells for this same type of sauce) and sauteed with butter, olive oil, shallots or onions, garlic and tomato paste.

I deglazed with Madeira wine. Cognac, brandy or even white wine would be fine. I add about 1/4 cup and scrape up all the tasty, colorful bits for intense flavor. The ingredients then got covered with water, I threw in some parsley stems and dill stems. After about 45 minutes of gentle simmering, I tasted the stock and finding it substantially flavored, I strained it. In the empty pot, I made a roux with butter and flour and returned the stock to the pot. I tasted the thickened sauce for seasoning. I adjusted the salt and pepper and hit it with a bit of lemon juice, a tablespoon or so of fresh lemon zest and a few fresh fronds of dill. A splash or two of heavy cream rounded out the sauce. Upon completion, I realized that my long-absent hunger had returned with a vengeance. The act of cooking a meal using classic, age-old techniques, no matter how detailed and intense those techniques are or how many dishes they create, transports my spirit to a comfortable, invigorated, excited place. A place my soul likes to call home. A perfect place for a Pasta Stay-Cation.

Knights to Remember

It took me about 15 years to proudly make the statement, "I am a graduate of a Vo-Tech." My graduation occurred almost 25 years ago, but when I was a student, going to Tech was mainly for Stoners wearing Army jackets and kids who wouldn't survive college prep classes. It was considered an insult to education. Few people saw it as a brilliant strategic move in the development of a lifelong career. A few of us did, however.

Now, Middle Schoolers have to interview to be selected for a few coveted classroom spots (the Tech in Warren County is an all-day program, half is academics). Who knew it would become the cool place to be?

I am beginning to forge a friendly relationship with Warren County Technical School's Culinary/Hospitality Program students and instructor, Mr. Fortun. I have been fortunate to employ, Erin, a Culinary Goddess (who still comes to visit but currently works elsewhere) and now, Karl, Man about Town and Steward Extraordinaire. It's Karl's job to get me prepped up and then clean up after me. He's new, but we really like him around here.

Upon Karl's suggestion, I invited my friend Anna H. from the United Way of Warren County to lunch at the technical school's restaurant, Knights Cafe. The reviews are in: We were both very impressed. Karl (on the right in his blue coat) was our server and he was attentive and polite.

Our soup was hot and delicious, our salads were fresh and prepared in front of our eyes by Erin, Culinary Goddess!

Mr. Fortun strolled the dining room making friends and he reminded us to save room for dessert. Anna is displaying the fried apple pies that both of us chose. Tasty!

Am I a tough customer when it comes to dining out? I sure am, but not in this restaurant. Before I would expect these culinarians to pump out 5-star cuisine, I want them to know basic sanitaion, beginning food preparation and good customer service and it looks like they are well on their way.

Oh, Those Jazzy Apples

I never thought the day would come when my children would complain that our household was out of fruits and vegetables. Sure, I knew that the supply was dwindling, but when 14-yr. old Boy laments, "There is NOTHING to eat in this houuussseee" because he's out of apples, it's time to get myself to the market. Apples are not in season. That season would be late summer into Autumn. To begin with, I am not a big apple fan. When in season, I like MacIntosh apples because, when picked or purchased fresh, and refrigerated, their flesh is not mealy and they taste tangy, not overly sweet. Boy loves Red Delicious. Recently I was in the market with 6-yr. old Girl. We stumbled upon a new appled called Jazz. Because she takes Jazz dancing lessons, I offered to buy her some and they turned out to be fantastic. Even better than my favorite Macs. First of all, they are a perfect size. I don't need two and I can easily finish one. The flesh is denser than a Mac, closer to a Red Delicious, but the flavor is sweet and so less tanic than a Red Delish. Tanin is the acid (also in walnuts and many other foods) that gives it color but also draws your mouth astringently. I keep my Jazzy apples in the refrigerator in order to retain their crispness and keep them juicy. They don't last long. Which apple is your favorite?

Some Things I could do without in my Food-Centric Life

Yesterday we hosted our second Warren County Lunch'n Learn. I've been blessed with an invitation to partner with the area's topmost computer experts, Andrea Kirchuk of Computer Images Web and Jeff Jewell of Computing Solutions to present hour-long lunch and information seminars geared towards businesses. Our first series of seminars focus on dipping your toes in the Social Media waters and protecting your computer as you go. Molly McGrath of CIWeb also joined us. These folks really know their stuff and for as much as I invest in marketing AngelFood via the web, I have a lot to learn. Lunch'n Learns are one of my favorite types of catered meals to prepare. The menu is fresh and simple, easy to execute and low stress. It's during these times that my mind wanders. It was also during this preparation that I remembered a thorn in my paw. I can't stand the twist ties the produce people put around a head of lettuce. Sometimes they are wrapped too tight and invariably the silvery tie strangles and mangles the lettuce. I could also do without styrofoam egg boxes. While I don't know all the environmental/financial facts regarding packaging, I do know that styrofoam is often a less expensive way to package foods plus, it gives the eggs a tiny more bit of bounce while they're man-handled during shipping. My town has made it possible for me to recycle almost every bit of non-food trash in my house but not the styrofoam egg cartons. I could do without cellophane snack bags. At least the ones that tear as soon as I try to wrestle them open in my desparate attempt to get to the pretzels that will accompany my Cheddar and Barefoot Merlot. Why do some snack bags "work" better than others? I find this quite mysterious. And those "recloseable" bags that tear in the wrong place as you're wrestling open the package? Yeah, you can keep those, too. What things could you live without in your Food-Centric life?

That First Blank Page

Facing that first blank page of any writing project can be daunting, as any writer will tell you. Even those of us who are accustomed to laying ourselves wide open for public scrutiny still cower when there's writing to be done and you're just not in the mood. But, here I am. Molly of Computer Images Web has set up the blog area of my website and removed my excuses. What's funny is that on any given day I have a constant stream of thoughts, many related to food, running through my head. It's time to stick my toes in the water. Today's projects include attending my favorite monthly networking meeting, AM Biz. This month the group is celebrating their 7th Anniversary and AngelFood supplied cake and fruit salad. We're also getting ready for the Warren County Regional Chamber of Commerce's Business Expo held tomorrow at the Warren County Vo-Tech. I prepared some display cakes and will be offering samples of Asian Pasta. On the right is a one of tomorrow's display cakes featuring an Edible Image of a sweet, little girl. We can put any photograph or logo on a cake or cookie. My biggest news is that tomorrow, after the Expo, I am going to pick up my new 20-quart mixer! I've waited a long time to make this major purchase and I'm so excited I think I'll knock on all the neighbors' doors asking if they have anything BIG they want mixed.