Friday, June 10, 2011

Honor Thy Fish

I really love to cook.
You might think that this in an obvious statement, but it's not really. My life is embroiled (no pun intended) in food, beverage, cooking, entertaining but there's a real difference between cooking for production and cooking for pleasure. I received a wonderful reminder this week.
My husband and son took me on my first deep sea fishing trip with our boy scout troop (#146, White Township, NJ). I caught 3, the Mister caught 4, but all had to be released because they were too small. The Boy caught 2. His first was too small. His second, was the largest fluke on the boat. It measured 24" long and weighed 4 1/2 pounds, yielding 2 pounds of meat. Boy is on the left, in the blue jacket. I think he was a little skeeved by the fish, so his buddy held it for the photo.
We decided that extra special care needed to be taken with the fish. Pulling the fish out of the ocean and then watching the mate clean it for us was a strong reminder that all the food we eat begins and ends with a life force. We need to honor the captain who puts his livelihood on the line to run a boat, the mates who have to be patient with so many fishing beginners, and the fisherman who works hard reeling it in. Most of all, we need to honor the fish who gave his life so we could be nourished.
We planned a special mealtime. Since Mondays are too hectic for us, we decided to prepare it and dine like kings on Tuesday. We served it on the china that my father brought home from Japan during the end of the Korean conflict. The meal was Fluke dressed with Spanish Saffron and Leek Cream, Crispy Potato Pancakes and Fresh Broccoli with Brown Butter. The garnish was fresh Lemon Thyme and the first Nasturtium from our garden.
It was an incredibly delicious meal, if I do say so. I wanted to let my Boy know that I honor the gift he shared with our family (and we even had enough to share with a dear friend). He gets it. The look on my Boy's face said it all.

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

I've been working on the Railroad

Third boxcar, midnight train Destination...Bangor, Maine. Old worn out suits and shoes, I don't pay no union dues, I smoke old stogies I have found Short, but not too big around I'm a man of means by no means King of the road. The song, King of the Road was written and recorded by Roger Miller in 1964. Always one of my favorite songs, it tells the story of a hobo (which stands for "homeward bound" by the way) who despite being poor and down on his luck, considers himself "King of the Road". Perhaps it was the jaunty tune rolling around in his head. And then I got on a train. Not your average train, mind you and not as a passenger. I was hired by a railroad to cook a meal and a half for a just-married couple on the way to their honeymoon in Montreal. The vintage car is an observation with a rear, open deck, which offered an incredible view of Lake Champlain on an Indian Summer afternoon. Since then, I've catered a sit-down dinner for 50 guests on what we call a "slow-moving" train and just last week we entertained about 50 guests for a "quick" cocktail party. This party was called quick because the trip itself lasted only about 1 hour between boarding in Port Jersey City and arriving in Staten Island. The only quick thing about prep for this party was that we had only two weeks for planning minus 4 days for Easter weekend. The heat was on! We had a total crew of 7 staff. We left our neighborhood at about 2pm for our hour trip to the yard or track where the train was parked. We loaded the cars and got busy for our guests' arrival at 6. They actually began boarding at about 5:15 but I had built time into the schedule and we still just kept rolling along with our plans. Besides planning, the real stress comes from the logistics of a train party. There is no room for storage. All of the equipment items that I had brought earlier in the week were in one lumpy spot and that mountain was growing with the carload of food and ice we brought with us. All items must be stowed, out of view, yet in a place where they can be accessed. Our hors d'oeuvres are all made from scratch. We served Arancini with Pomodoro Sauce (risotto Parmesan bites), Miniature Crab Cakes with Wasabi Cream, Miniature Beef Wellington, Spanikopita, Indonesian Shrimp Pancakes, Crudite, Cheese and Fruit, Cheesecake Lollipops, Assorted homemade cookies and Chocolate Covered Strawberries. Since I am accustomed to the idea of riding the rails, I forget how glamorous the idea is until other people remind me. After a successful ride it usually hits me. The effort my staff and I went to, the amazing system we've developed that we would be sunk without and the fact that we go where the universe takes us. For me, that is to the ports and terminals to feel the wind in my hair. Oven space is short. Counter space is almost non-existent. My usual galley (there were 3 cars on this trip, I worked from the most accessible and sensible kitchen which also happens to be my favorite) measures about 3 feet wide by about 5 feet long. Water on a train is not potable. Bring your own. Catering on a train is really hard and I'm a girl of means by no means at all, but I feel like I'm King of the Road.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Ready Yourself for Lent!

It just occurred to me that I'm sending mixed messages. Last blog was about persevering through your diet drought and now I'm promoting fastnachts, beignets and pancakes, oh my! If you’re a family that observes Lent by making one or more of your weekly meals meatless until the Easter holiday then that also means you get to welcome the solemn season with one more night of revelry in the form of Mardi Gras, Shrove Tuesday, or Fastnacht Day (Pennsylvania Dutch doughnuts). Café du Monde, the original French market coffee stand of New Orleans, Louisiana recommends using cottonseed oil to fry your beignets. They serve the small square doughnuts in orders of three that they lavishly sprinkle with powdered sugar. If the beignets do not puff properly, chances are your oil is too cold. This recipe is a close second to Café du Monde’s. The dough is a bit sticky, so be forewarned. You can also make these the day before and fry the next day. Buttermilk Beignets (from epicurious.com) Makes about 4 servings 3/4 cup whole milk 1 1/2 cups buttermilk 4 teaspoons active dry yeast 2 1/2 tablespoons sugar 3 1/2 cups bread flour plus extra for flouring work surface 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt Peanut oil for frying Confectioners' sugar for serving, as much as you think you'll need—then double that! Heat the milk in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until small bubbles form at the surface. Remove from the heat, add the buttermilk, and then pour into a stand mixer bowl. Whisk in the yeast and the sugar and set aside for 5 minutes. Add the flour, baking soda, and salt, and mix on low speed, using a dough hook, until the dry ingredients are moistened, 3 to 4 minutes. Increase the mixer speed to medium and continue mixing until the dough forms a loose ball and is still quite wet and tacky, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set the dough aside in a draft-free spot for 1 hour. Pour enough peanut oil into a large pot to fill it to a depth of 3 inches and bring to a temperature of 375°F over medium heat (this will take about 20 minutes). Line a plate with paper towels and set aside. Lightly flour your work surface and turn the dough out on it. Sprinkle the top of the dough with flour, gently press to flatten, fold it in half, and gently tuck the ends under to create a rough-shaped round. Dust again and roll the dough out into a ½-inch- to ¹/³ -inch-thick circle. Let the dough rest for 1 minute before using a chef's knife, a bench knife, or a pizza wheel to cut the dough into 1 1/2-inch squares (you should get about 48). Gently stretch a beignet lengthwise and carefully drop it into the oil. Add a few beignets (don't overcrowd them, otherwise the oil will cool down and the beignets will soak up oil and be greasy) and fry until puffed and golden brown, turning them often with a slotted spoon, for 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the prepared plate to drain while you cook the rest. Serve while still warm, buried under a mound of confectioners' sugar, with hot coffee on the side. Make ahead: The beignet dough can be made up to 8 hours in advance of frying. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and spray it with nonstick cooking spray. After cutting the dough, place the beignets on the paper and place another greased sheet of parchment paper, sprayed-side down, on top. Wrap the entire baking sheet with plastic wrap and refrigerate. The beignets can be fried straight from the refrigerator.

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

This is only a test...

I know there are countless people who made a New Year’s resolution to take better care of their bodies. I know it because the January issues of magazines and newspapers capitalize on the quest, which is usually to lose weight, whether the reason is to look better, or to feel better, or if we just believe that a smaller waistline will somehow make us better, more acceptable humans. I know it because the gym is full of folks I’ve never seen before and the trainers seem to have very full schedules on the gym floor. I also know, just from life experience that embracing new behaviors is challenging and can really take a toll on a person, especially in the dead of winter. Whose big idea was it to make winter the Diet Prime Time when the most prevalent fresh, seasonal items have muted, understated flavors compared to their warm-weather compatriots? It’s more than challenging to feel the pulse of your spirit broadcast, “I’m ready to jump and run and eat delicious fruits and vegetables!” only to swing the door wide open with fervor and be met with a grey day with temps in single digits with the prospect of cabbage for lunch. It’s downright discouraging. Well, I’m here to tell you that this is only a test. You can weather this storm. You’ve been through tougher tests than this one and bigger difficulties are probably on their way. If you can prevail over these trials, one at a time, then that’s what will make you better, not a smaller waistline. I’ve got a few tips for you (and a recipe that capitalizes on cabbage!). They’re not new, but they’re worth repeating, even if they come with a whacky perspective: • Develop your own team- including cheerleaders! Build your team with folks who know more about fitness than you and with people on the same journey as you. Have an inspiration and be an inspiration. Accountability, on different levels, works wonders. • Set reasonable, achievable goals- If this process is overwhelming, it’s up to you to diminish the threat in small doses. You deserve that. My most recent goal has nothing to do with a number on the scale or a tape measure. My goal is to sweat like Evelyn, my favorite fitness class instructor. I want to get the most of my workout, which means digging deep some days. You may choose a fitness goal or a food goal (such as finding recipes that are simple, nutritious and delicious) but make that goal your own. • Have a reward in mind- I have a stunning, eggplant-colored dress. Thank goodness the dress fits me beautifully. I refuse to reduce to fit into evening wear, but this garment inspires me to take better care of myself so that my heart is stronger for my next shopping trip when this dress outgrows me. • Just don’t give up. Here is the vegetarian version for Bounty Rice. You can replace the can of beans with ½-1 pound of ground beef or pork that’s been browned and then drained well. Bounty Rice 1 can of small white beans, drained (or your favorite bean) 1 cup onion, chopped 1 cup green pepper, chopped 2 cans diced tomatoes, drained 4 cups shredded cabbage 3 cups cooked rice (I use brown. Lundberg makes some really great blends) 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon dried basil ½ teaspoon garlic powder ½ cup sour cream (I use low fat) 1 cup mozzarella (I use low fat cheddar) Saute beans, onions and peppers until vegetables are just tender/crisp. Stir in all ingredients except the cheese. You can sprinkle the cheese on top and cover until melted OR you can pour ingredients into a greased 2-quart casserole and bake at 325 degrees for 30-45 minutes, top with cheese and let melt. I also individually portion into cup servings, top with cheese and freeze. Makes about 8 (1 cup) servings. Adapted from Simply in Season by Mary Beth Lind and Cathleen Hockman-Wert (World Community).

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Is it reality or is it fake?

I took a little break from producing food media. It wasn't on purpose...exactly. I thought, at the time that it was just the ways the stars aligned. Before the high-catering season of the holidays hit, I pre-recorded several radio shows, which also coincided with WNTI's move into a brand-new studio. Right before Christmas there were changes made in one of my writing contracts and then the holidays hit. AngelFood was too busy preparing and serving food for me to even want to think about writing/producing interesting, witty words to promote better planning, buying, cooking or eating. Almost a whole month passed, and all of a sudden, my exec producer at WNTI was barking up my tree..."We need your stuff by xxx!" That was one week, two large parties and two snowstorms away. It was just not gonna happen. But really, did I honestly think she would let me just fall off the face of the radio earth? Not her. I took myself to a quiet place and dug deep for a topic that interested me. Sometimes, very little about the food world interests me. Right now, I'm so busy enjoying other aspects of my life, such as getting physical exercise daily, eating in the name of fuel instead of lust, stringing sparkly beaded jewelry, and hanging with my family that there is very little passion or energy left for trendy dishes, whether on the page, on the air, or on my plate. I chose to interview Chef Eric LeVine, a buddy from a popular professional caterer's internet forum. I admire him, as so many do, for his trailblazing level of creativity and his generosity in helping others with ideas and answers. His newer claim to fame is that he was a contestant on the Food Network's competition "Chopped". I don't get a chance to view television often and when I do, I usually do not choose shows about food (it's a great big world out there!). So, after Eric agreed to be interviewed for my radio segment, I had to find the episode "Prove it on the Plate" in order to conduct a thorough interview. I found it on itunes. I love reality TV. So many naysayers will point out that the shows are edited and I appreciate that. My contention is that there are things you cannot fake and editors cannot change. If the words do not come out of your mouth, they cannot be recorded. If you body language isn't displayed, it cannot be filmed. The editors may move it around for a more dramatic story, but the heart of the actor is clearly on display. I knew from reading Eric LeVine's posts regarding cooking and catering that I would like this guy. Then I knew from watching his "Chopped" episode that his radio debut on WNTI would be fantastic. After I actually got him on the phone, I knew we'd end up being friends for a long time. So far, I'm winning two out of three. And I'm willing to bet we'll be friends for a long time, too. He took me to a place filled with hope (he's a cancer survivor and he just opened a restaurant). He took me to a place of inspiration (he pulled off an apparently delicious sauce with Bosc pears over New Zealand mussels). But best of all, he reminded me that his and my world is a place of belief. Belief that hard work, an attitude of gratefulness and graciousness, with a heaping dose of talent can provide a lifetime of rewards, even if you need to take a little break, here and there. And you can't fake that.

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Autumnal Bounty Dinner Party

"It is better to give than to receive." Sometimes I wonder about that adage. I believe the outcome depends upon which side you're on, the giving or the receiving. It's really just a matter of perspective. Last spring, AngelFood gave a gift certificate for a 6-course dinner party to the Moravian Academy. The gift certificate held a place at a massive silent auction during the Moravian Academy Ball (which was a blast!). It seemed like the certificate was lost amongst the many other entries vying for attention at the ball. Well, if it was lost, that evening it certainly got found. The winning bidder was a lovely lady from a town just up the road from us. After some discussion about food preferences, we developed a menu that we kept secret until that evening. On the menu: Butternut Ravioli in Walnut Sage Butter (photo on left) Wild Mushroom Cappuccino Baby Greens with Pomegranate Vinaigrette, 5-spice Pepitas and Goat Cheese (photo on right) Cranberry Thyme Sorbet (photo on left, served in cordial glasses with rainbow rock sugar and demitasse spoon) Roasted Rack of Lamb with Fig Relish, Pear (shaped)Potato Croquettes and Romanesco (photo on right. Romanesco is Roman Cauliflower.) Pear Tart with Brown Sugar Ice Cream and Balsamic Syrup It's an understatement to report that a good time was had by all. Although we did provide the gift certificate, we were far from the giving end of this event. When all of the AngelFood stars align and we're able to offer the impeccable service of beautiful food to gracious hosts and their appreciative guests, we feel as though we are the recipients of wonderful gifts.

Monday, November 8, 2010

It isn't easy being Green (Dotters)

From the Lincoln Trail District Area (Kentucky) Green Dot website (bold emphasis is my own): Hundreds of research studies have shown that thousands in the US and around the world are victims of sexual assault, partner violence, stalking or child abuse every year. Each incident hurts us all. These acts of violence are like red dots covering a map, much like an epidemic spreading out of control if not stopped. But, we CAN stop violence and you are a part of the solution. Through your words, your choices and your actions in any given moment, you can add a “Green Dot” to our map-displacing a red dot-and making a difference. A “Green Dot” symbolizes a single moment in time that can be used to end perpetration or support victims of violence. Adding a Green Dot will increase community safety for everyone. If each of us adds 1 or 2 or 5 or 100 green dots-we will begin to reduce violence in our community one green dot at a time. On October 18, AngelFood participated in the 16th Annual Culinary Carousel, which is an event held at Hawk Pointe Golf Club, featuring the area's best restaurants and chefs. The proceeds from ticket and silent auction sales benefits the Domestic Abuse and Sexual Assault Crisis Center of Warren County. We've participated in this event as part of the restaurant committee and preparing the evening's hor d'oeuvre for 4 years.
This year's menu featured Edible Green Dots! We served miniature Arancini (risotto balls being cooked on right) dipped in Pesto (get it, little green dots?!)
And then we began playing with Molecular Gastronomy. On the left are Cilantro Pearls made by combining pureed Cilantro with other food additives. The result are tiny pouches (as seen in the photo on left, suspended in their finishing liquid) of flavor that burst in your mouth. We used the Cilantro Pearls to garnish Crab Cakes on Wontons (as seen in the photo on the right). When all was said and done, we realized we could've used capers but the Cilantro Pearls were much more adventuresome and fun!
The biggest hit of the evening, were the Molecular Olives. We took really good, traditional green olives, on the left, (still the whole green dot theme!) and put them through the Molecular process (in their finishing liquid on right).
We presented the olives on our custom-made spoon display, spooning them on right in front of guests (and fellow chefs) who were amazed by the texture and intense flavor!
We're happy to report that the event raised around $44, 000 for the shelter, helping to provide a place of refuge and safety for victims.
It's not easy being green. It's not easy taking steps towards ending violence. It's not easy speaking out or standing up for the lookout. Like creating Molecular Gastronomy, the process is arduous, time-consuming and frustrating. But as each small goal gets met and each small triumph is made, the results are truly amazing.
In May, I graduated from the one-day Green Dot Training. I wear my t-shirt proudly, helping to spread the message that "No one has to do everything, but everyone must do something" to put an end to violence.