The Bahrain Challenge

I'm happy to report that AngelFood has been so busy that it seems I've had a hard time lifting myself out of the steamy kitchen to catch up with the world. But the world keeps on turning!

While I was cooking, I received a message from my younger sister, Audrey, a surgeon in the Navy who is currently waiting in the Kingdom of Bahrain for another ship to pick her up. It's not that she makes a habit out of hanging out in foreign countries, hoping to hop aboard a floating vessel. She was actually fulfilling time aboard the USS Elrod in the Gulf of Aden.

In the photo, right, Audrey is on the far right, armed with pan spray. This crew is baking cookies for 360 sailors from the recipes we sent them.

Her message said: Hey I have an AFPCS (AngelFood PCS) challenge for you. We are in Bahrain and we are trying to cook/eat on the local economy. The good news is that the foodstuffs here are GREAT. The bad news is that all we have to cook with is a gas grill and a microwave. Any meal suggestions? We've already done burgers, baked potatoes, fajitas and chicken.

She knows how I love a challenge. I wish she could get her hands on a crock pot. Then she'd really be in business. But for now, AngelFood is going to answer the call! The first dish I thought of was pizza. Here's a recipe from the book Grilling written by CIA (that's my alma mater, The Culinary Institute of America, not the government agency).

They recommend grilling the onions for the pizza before you begin. You can use uncooked sweet onions like Vidalia or Walla Walla. The tomato sauce you use should not be too watery.

Grilled Pizza

Makes 1 to 8 servings (we like pizza)

2 1/2 tsp active dry yeast

2 cups warm water

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup semolina flour, plus extra for dusting

1 Tbsp. salt

1/4 cup olive oil

1 1/2 cups tomato sauce

2 cups grated mozzarella

1/4 cup diced sauteed onions

2 Tbsp. basil chiffonade

Combine the yeast and water in a bowl and stir to dissolve. Let the mixture sit until a thick foam forms.

Add the flours and salt to the yeast and stir by hand, or mix on medium speed in an electric mixer using the dough hook attachment, until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a second bowl that has been lightly oiled. Cover the dough with a clean kitchen towel and let rest at room temperature until nearly doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours.

Gently fold the dough over and allow it to rise for another 45 minutes.

Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.

Roll or stretch the dough into a 12-inch round. Lightly dust a 12-inch pizza pan with semolina flour and lay the dough round on top. Brush some of the olive oil over the entire dough round.

Lift the dough from the pan and place the pizza dough directly on the grill with the oiled side face-down. Brush the dough with the remaining olive oil. Grill the pizza until the dough is maked and puffs up slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip the pizza over and spread the sauce evenly over the round, leaving a 1/2-inch border around the outside edges. Evenly sprinkle the cheese over the sauce and top with the onions. Close the lid on the grill. Cook the pizza until the crust is golden brown and the cheese is slightly brown and bubbly, about 2 to 3 minutes more.

Remove the pizza from the grill and sprinkle the basil chiffonade on top. Cut the pizza into 8 slices and serve immediately.

Just a couple of notes: Audrey can get pizza in a cone at the movies in Bahrain. It's called Kono Pizza and is from a licensed Italian Franchise. She says it's baked perfectly and is delicious. I hope she's not tired of pizza.

AngelFood recently catered a party at the Musconetcong Watershed Association and got to talking with our friend, Assemblyman John DiMaio about grilling pizza. (That's him on the left, enjoying an Antipasta Brochette) He's been making grilled pizza a lot this summer. His advice to Audrey? "Tell your sister to make sure the grill top is closed and the grill is turned on high. You want to get the temperature up to about 400 degrees. I use a pizza stone and it turns out great. You just gotta make sure the grill is good and hot."

Sometimes, at home, for a quick, tasty, thick pizza sauce, I use a can of tomato paste, seasoned and slightly thinned with water. I like the sweetness of the paste and the thickness can be adjusted to taste.

What do you think Audrey should be making with her microwave and grill? More ideas and recipes to come!

Spice is the Variety of Life

Our friend Denise writes: Dear Chef Jewels, I am wondering if you can make any suggestions for what I can make using these spices: Baharat spice and Ras el Hanout. I'm dying to use them...thanks! I am very familiar with Ras el Hanout. It is a popular spice blend used across Northern Africa, especially Morocco. The name Ras el Hanout translates to "top of the shop" as it represents the best spices a shopkeeper has to offer. Like curry, there is no set-in-stone recipe for Ras el Hanout, everybody's got their preferred, sometimes top secret formula. Some ingredients still foreign to the Western world such as ash berries, orris root and chubebs are in the recipe but around here you'll find Ras el Hanout containing spices such as cinnamon, cumin, cardamom, cloves and chili peppers, to name a few. It can be used on almost all foods, as meat rubs and even stirred into rice. I'm not sure if this liberal use is attributed to the spice's taste or because it's sometimes considered an aphrodisiac! Baharat is a blend I am unfamiliar with, so I did a bit of research. Baharat is more Turkish, Arabic and/or Iranian. Turkish Baharat contains a fair amount of mint. You might also find cassia (cinnamon), cardamom, allspice, pepper, cloves and cumin. It is used to flavor soup, lamb, chicken, fish and beef. Sometimes it is used as a condiment to add flavor to food after cooking, also. Lebanese Lamb and Bean Stew 1 lb dried navy beans, picked over and rinsed 2 lb boneless lamb shoulder or boneless leg of lamb, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baharat* or 1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick 9 cups water 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium onions, chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 teaspoons salt 3/4 teaspoon black pepper 3 tablespoons tomato paste Accompaniments: spiced basmati rice, pita bread

Cover beans with cold water by 3 inches in a bowl and soak at room temperature at least 8 hours. Drain well in a colander. Bring lamb, baharat, and water (9 cups) to a boil in a 6- to 8-quart heavy pot, then vigorously simmer mixture, covered, until meat is almost tender, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Add beans and cook, uncovered, until beans are tender, about 1 hour more. Meanwhile, heat oil over moderate heat in a 12-inch heavy skillet until hot but not smoking, then cook onions, garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper, stirring, until onions are pale golden and tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. When beans are tender, stir in tomato-onion mixture and simmer until just heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Makes 8 servings. Source: epicurious.com Chicken with Figs in Ras el Hanout and Couscous 6 whole chicken leg-thigh pieces (about 4 1/2 pounds total) 1 tablespoon salt plus additional for seasoning 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided 12 baby carrots, peeled 1 cup shallots, peeled, halved (about 4 large) 3 garlic cloves, peeled 1 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme plus additional for garnish 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel 2 tablespoons ras-el-hanout 3 cups low-salt chicken broth 3/4 cup dry white wine 14 Brown Turkey figs, halved 2 teaspoons Sherry wine vinegar Couscous (prepared according to package directions) Arrange chicken on rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle each side of each piece with 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cover with plastic wrap and chill overnight. Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Transfer chicken to skillet and sear until golden, 5 to 6 minutes per side. Transfer chicken to heavy roasting pan, skin side up. Add carrots, shallots, garlic, 1 teaspoon thyme, lemon peel, ras-el-hanout, chicken broth, white wine, and remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil to skillet. Bring to boil, whisking up brown bits. Pour mixture over chicken in roasting pan and bring to simmer over medium heat. Cover with foil; place in oven. Braise 1 hour, until tender. Transfer chicken, carrots, and shallots to baking sheet; discard garlic. Pour pan juices into large saucepan. Spoon off fat from surface. Boil juices until reduced to 1 3/4 cups, whisking occasionally, about 18 minutes. Add figs and vinegar; cook until figs are just heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Place cooked couscous on large plate. Top with chicken, vegetables, and figs. Spoon sauce over chicken and figs. Garnish with fresh herbs and serve immediately. Makes 6 servings. Source: epicurious.com

Maintaining Your Edge

A question from our friend, Carole:

Dear Chef Quelly,

I made the investment many years ago to get a few good kitchen knives. I got a honing steel with the big knife, (and even a video to teach me how to use it), but I think it's time for a professional sharpening. I can even see little nicks in the blade when I look closely. Is this the right answer and if so, any idea where I can get it done locally? Appreciate your insights.

Well, here are my initial insights. I hate sharpening my knives. I have always been too impatient to do the job, but it's a necessary practice as a good cook.

But, moving on...A sharp knife may help prevent fatigue and accidents, as you put less effort into getting hard foods cut. A sharp knife is nicer to your food as it does not bruise before cutting onions and garlic (and have you ever made sauce when you only want to dice a tomato?).

Those little nicks are called micro-serrations and can be helpful, aggresive cutters--if you're slicing rope, which you are not. Sometimes you can see a dull edge. Under bright light, a dull knife, nicks and burrs will reflect a glint. A sharp knife will not.

I have a basic 2-sided (2 different grits) bench stone purchased at a hardware store. In a different stone I purchased, came a little plastic 20 degree wedge that I could use to guide my knife while stroking on the stone, which helped me get the correct angle (my biggest problem). Maybe you know a woodworker or handy person who can make you a tiny wedge. It's a great tool. Sharpening guides can also be purchased, but they do take up some room on the stone.

Once you start to sharpen, you should see that you are removing just the edge. Steel naturally forms a burr, a thin bendable projection on the edge. You might see or feel the burr. It will be on the side opposite to the one you are grinding. As you become more proficient, you'll be looking for a smaller and smaller burr. Sharpen both sides evenly. When you see the burr, use the finer grit stone to remove the coarse marks left by the coarse stone. A finished edge is sharper and more durable. A steel is used after and in between sharpening removes the burr.

Control your sharpening angle, sharpen until a burr is raised and then hone that burr to a fine finish.

I can definitely support the notion of professional grinding. With good steel knives, it is more difficult to achieve and keep an edge, but the knife will stand up to a lifetime of use and sharpening. I do not support the grinding of knives by anyone but an experienced professional, especially if you might be heartbroken by a damaged knife. Once whittled, you can never go back.

I telephoned my friend and stylist, Penny Deemer, owner of Copper's Salon for professional sharpening recommendations. She's been sending her scissors out to the same man, Mr. Smith for 26 years. He returns your tools the next day and does much of the finishing and honing by hand. Penny said, "Mr. Smith will tell you which knives will be worth it and which will not. Some [knives and scissors] hold [an edge] and some don't. Jewels, I still have the same pair of scissors I was using in beauty school. I can still use them." Mr. Smith can be reached at 908-722-4941.

Carole, after you and I both employee Mr. Smith, I think we should have a quarterly neighborhood knife sharpening party, just to maintain our edge.