Tuesday, October 11, 2011

How to get a bargain from the professionals you hire

On the way to a dinner party event, my assistant and I had a business discussion stemming from her question: "After all is said and done, after all this work, do you feel as though you're earning the right amount of profit?"
Her question is a valid one. I had had the foresight to really pay attention to what went into this particular party from the cost of the high-quality ingredients, to the extra serviceware I had to buy in order to accommodate extra guests to the time involved creating the event. And the time is where it's at.

Up until we got into the car to drive to the client's home, I had already put in 18 hours of cooking time.
After discussing some of these details at length, I summed it up for her. "In the end, I want our client, who is hiring a professional chef to serve guests in his home for the first time, to be wowwed. I want him to feel and for me to know that he got a bargain." I want every client to feel this way.

I actually hired a professional photographer, Doug Armstrong of DA Visions to capture the evening. Working with him and his assistant, Nicole was a joyful breeze. The biggest advantage I realized when working with Doug is how he uses of his own space. As artists working with small subjects (plates of food, cubes of pear, etc.) we both need to get close to the subject if we're going to get it right and Doug just seems to meld himself into my space as though we've been dancing partners for many years.

And then the photos came back. I am stunned by their beauty. My favorite (and it was so hard to choose one) does not involve people. It involves the salad bouquet. It was the first time we had served salad this way and we were taking big chances because the dish involves height and there's no going back. If the salad falls, the dish is just another salad. They all worked. Doug got the shot (several of them). When we viewed it on our computer screen we were speechless in wonder.

How do you get a bargain from the professionals you hire? Hire the right professional for the job.
I got a real bargain.

Photo credit: DA Visions/Doug Armstrong

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Face Time

I’m paraphrasing one of my favorite women here…


…If I take the time every day to recognize just one gift, it will make everything so much better. There is at least one gift in every day… I really think there are lots of them…so when I see it I say, “There it is. This is a gift!” Embrace it. Go with it.
Tina K.


A few months ago, I readied myself for an incredibly busy work day. It included shopping in several locations, meeting with a client for a site review, and then back to headquarters to begin prepping for several large events. And I had just gotten back from vacation. And it was pouring. And the cooler lid just fell on the bridge of my nose. Ugh.

As I drove from place to place, I found myself internally bemoaning the fact that I had so much to do that I didn’t have time to meet with this client and review this site. A site is just a site, right? The food was planned. How important was face time with this client?

It was more important than I can ever express. As soon as I saw her smile, my day changed. She was excited about unveiling this new space to the public and had invited me to feed them. She shared with me her plans for the event and her vision for the ceremony. We sounded out thoughts and questions and potential trouble spots in hopes of avoiding them. We blocked out food stations and the flow of our guests (or crowd control as she likes to call it). Her energy was contagious and I remembered what my purpose/place was.

I live in an honored and prestigious place. I am invited to some of the most special, intimate moments of peoples’ lives. The unveiling of their spaces, the introduction of their newborn children, the memorials of their beloved family members and to the weddings that they’ve been dreaming of forever. And it’s my job to nourish them and their guests. Providing delicious food is just one tiny aspect of truly nourishing someone you love.

The food is the easy part. It’s the Face Time that makes my life as a chef so incredibly rich…and gifted.

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Going Nuts

As I looked out the second story window kitchen window from our raised ranch while doing dishes one morning, I noticed that the walnuts on the neighbor's tree were growing nicely. I'm sure the tree was planted by some thoughtful but forgetful squirrel about 50 years ago. I suddenly remembered a recipe I'd seen in a book sent to me for review that I later used for a radio interview on WNTI (the show's archive is here). Gifts Cooks Love, by Diane Morgan and Sur la Table is a lovely book filled with high-quality photographs, unique recipes and ideas about packaging.

I remembered the recipe for the Italian liqueur made from immature black walnuts and I hoped that I wasn't too late. Morgan explains in the book that the walnuts need to be the size of a small lime and the nut inside has to be under-developed. I later read from another source that the idea is that you need to be able to cut through the nut. Okay, I was in the clear, but could I find the 30 of them that I needed for the Nocino recipe? They looked so close when I was looking out the window...yeah, the 2nd story window.

Immature black walnuts being readied for Nocino

Waiting for the additional ingredients
Between carefully reaching while on the ladder (the green leaves flex when grabbed, but alas, the furniture-quality,durable wood is not so flexible--surprise!) and gathering a few from the ground, I harvested my quota of walnuts. I gathered all the additional ingredients I needed, except the alcohol. Well, when you purchase Everclear at 9 a.m. in Warren County, NJ, nobody blinks an eye. As a matter of fact, the man in front of me at the cashier tried to invite himself to my party. Where was he when I needed someone to "go out on a limb" for the nuts??

The liqueur will sit until Christmas time (just in time for the neighborhood progressive dinner!). The nuts actually get spent of flavor in about 2 months from what I've read, but the next 3 months are needed to mellow the elixir. I imagined the flavor to be of a wet walnut sundae. I was completely wrong. So far, it tastes like green, herbal deliciousness. I still look forward to putting it over some homemade vanilla ice cream come winter.

I've entitled the following recipe with the year since I may change it by using brandy, vodka, vermouth or some combination thereof, if desired.

Italian Nocino Liqueur 2011
Makes about 9 (7-8 oz.) bottles of liqueur OR one really big one
You'll need a 1-gallon glass jar, clean
30 fresh green black walnuts harvested in late spring or early summer
1 (750 ml) bottle grain alcohol
1 (750 ml) bottle Pinot Grigio
4 cups granulated sugar
1 cup of water or so (to make simple syrup)
Peel from one lemon
40 whole cloves
3 cinnamon sticks
1 vanilla bean, split

Place water and sugar on stove . Bring to a simmer. You only need enough water to dissolve the sugar. If you want to fore go this step, you may, but it will require more stirring during the curing months. Allow syrup to cool.
Gather and wash the walnuts. Cut into quarters. Place into jar. Add aromatic ingredients and cool syrup. Add the alcohol and secure the lid. Shake the jar weekly. The liqueur will take on a deep amber color. After about 5 months, strain using a colander over a large bowl to remove the solids. Now, strain again, using a fine mesh strainer over a pitcher. Strain a third time by placing a coffee filter or cheesecloth over the strainer.

If using for gifts, funnel into clean decorative bottles, seal and enjoy.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

The Screamin' Continues!

My next opportunity to make ice cream was right around the corner, literally. We were invited to a neighborhood Steak Out. That's when you bring your protein of choice for your family to eat and a dish to share. I brought dessert.
My Boy has been away all summer working at Boy Scout Camp and I wanted to treat him to his favorite flavor, Mint Chocolate Chip. Using the mint (some chocolate mint, some spearmint) from the garden, I steeped the heavy cream/milk mixture I use for the custard-style ice cream we like. I'm learning to adjust the amount of eggs and fat content since too much of both makes the ice cream overly heavy in texture and also too difficult to freeze properly. If it freezes without churning (as it does when I give up and remove it from the freezing machine and put it in the freezer) it will become crystallized with jagged-edged ice, not smooth and creamy. I folded bits of a high-quality bittersweet chocolate bar into the mix as it made its way into the freezer. The mint flavor was divine. Next time, I'll temper the chocolate and allow it to harden into a very thin layer before breaking and folding in, which might melt better in the mouth. But, did I mention how great the mint flavor was?

We also made Fresh Strawberry using a lesser fat content. It had a quicker melting point and a lighter feel in the mouth. It was more icy.

And we didn't forget the cones. I used my pizzelle iron to make the cookie part, which I then wrapped around a tapered, wooden cone mold. The flavor of the cones was delicious. Next time, I might make the batter a bit thinner so the walls of the cone are thinner and I might try making the batter using brown sugar for a deeper flavor. Instead of making cones out of all of them, I turned some upside down on a small bowl while still hot and placed another bowl on top to form them into edible cups.

Waffle Cones
3 Tablespoons butter, melt then cool
1 egg
2 egg whites
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup sugar
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon vanilla (high quality makes a big difference)

Heat pizzelle or waffle maker. Spray with nonstick cooking spray.

Gently whip together the eggs and salt. Add sugar and mix until smooth. Stir in flour, butter and vanilla. The mixture will be thick. Place about 2 tablespoons in the center of the iron and bake until golden (about a minute or two). I remove one cookie at a time and form around the cone maker or the bowls. If you have tender paws, use a kitchen towel. Don't forget to pinch the bottom until it seals. These can be stored in an airtight container for up to at least a week.

Where the Homegrown Worlds Collide

Cyrus Hyde of Well-Sweep Herb Farm told me that his wife, "Louise puts lemon verbena in a pitcher of ice water in the summer. When you're done drinking the water, it tastes as though you've had a lemon Lifesaver in your mouth." When he tore off a leaf for me to sniff, the heady fragrance carried me away. I bought two plants. I was certain I could make use of them.

Somewhere along the way, as my schedule simmered down after the springtime rush and the temperature ratcheted up, I thought about ice cream. I spent Easter in Norfolk, Virginia with my younger sister and her family. Since my sister moved to Norfolk a few years ago, a trip to Doumar's has been on my bucket list. In case you're unfamiliar, Doumar's is the home of the first ice cream cone and to this day, they make the cones from scratch, before your very eyes.

The restaurant, which is part dine-inside and part curb service was packed full of people being served from a simple barbecue/hamburger menu. They  have a basic, but thorough ice cream sundae menu created with vanilla, chocolate, strawberry or pecan ice cream. The cones were tasty, but I was a little disappointed.

I understand that they probably don't need to create any more or new ice cream flavors to draw in the crowds, but I felt like the cones should be honored by at least one really truly (perhaps rotating) special,  homemade ice cream flavor. So, when ice cream came into season around my neck of the woods, I began creating my own.

I had the perfect opportunity. Happy hour with friends was coming up. Thankfully, my friends are accustomed to being experimented on. I planned to make Lemon Verbena ice cream. Coincidentally, berry picking was also at its peak during that week, so the ingredients on hand culminated in Peach Melba. Fresh, ripe peaches joined Wild Wineberry/Raspberry Sauce served over Lemon Verbena Ice Cream. I also made what my daughter calls Mashberry Pie, which is what happens when you pick pounds of wild berries. The ones on the bottom of the bucket are bound to get a little mashed. The ice cream had a more complex flavor than traditional lemon since the verbena has strong green flavor notes. Complemented by the berry sauce, I love it when those worlds collide.

Homesteading

This summer I was bitten by a bug. The Homesteading Bug.
I've always enjoyed homemaking and creating things from scratch, but it was a while since I did any of those sorts of projects until I visited the herb farm.

In beautiful Warren County in the Garden State of New Jersey, we're blessed to have Well-Sweep Herb Farm. 2011 marks their 42nd year in business and their inventory includes 1,949 varieties of plants. Funny thing is, Cyrus Hyde (pictured on right in a field of his famous propagated single bloom globe thistle) bought his land in 1966 to homestead because he had a passion for gardening.

I made my way to the herb farm to purchase some lemon balm for a refreshing summertime drink. I came home with 2 Lemon Verbena plants (lemon heaven on earth), 6 Nasturtiums (edible flowers), 1 Lemon Balm, Chocolate Mint, Ginger Mint, Chewing Gum Mint, Rosemary (extra oily), Basil, Lavender, Oregano, Lemon Thyme and English Thyme.

As I planted the herbs in anticipation of the summer bounty, I was reminded of how much I enjoyed creating my own home atmosphere and some of the products (most edible, but not all) we use. Let the cooking and the projects begin!

Friday, June 10, 2011

Honor Thy Fish

I really love to cook.
You might think that this in an obvious statement, but it's not really. My life is embroiled (no pun intended) in food, beverage, cooking, entertaining but there's a real difference between cooking for production and cooking for pleasure. I received a wonderful reminder this week.
My husband and son took me on my first deep sea fishing trip with our boy scout troop (#146, White Township, NJ). I caught 3, the Mister caught 4, but all had to be released because they were too small. The Boy caught 2. His first was too small. His second, was the largest fluke on the boat. It measured 24" long and weighed 4 1/2 pounds, yielding 2 pounds of meat. Boy is on the left, in the blue jacket. I think he was a little skeeved by the fish, so his buddy held it for the photo.
We decided that extra special care needed to be taken with the fish. Pulling the fish out of the ocean and then watching the mate clean it for us was a strong reminder that all the food we eat begins and ends with a life force. We need to honor the captain who puts his livelihood on the line to run a boat, the mates who have to be patient with so many fishing beginners, and the fisherman who works hard reeling it in. Most of all, we need to honor the fish who gave his life so we could be nourished.
We planned a special mealtime. Since Mondays are too hectic for us, we decided to prepare it and dine like kings on Tuesday. We served it on the china that my father brought home from Japan during the end of the Korean conflict. The meal was Fluke dressed with Spanish Saffron and Leek Cream, Crispy Potato Pancakes and Fresh Broccoli with Brown Butter. The garnish was fresh Lemon Thyme and the first Nasturtium from our garden.
It was an incredibly delicious meal, if I do say so. I wanted to let my Boy know that I honor the gift he shared with our family (and we even had enough to share with a dear friend). He gets it. The look on my Boy's face said it all.

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

I've been working on the Railroad

Third boxcar, midnight train Destination...Bangor, Maine. Old worn out suits and shoes, I don't pay no union dues, I smoke old stogies I have found Short, but not too big around I'm a man of means by no means King of the road. The song, King of the Road was written and recorded by Roger Miller in 1964. Always one of my favorite songs, it tells the story of a hobo (which stands for "homeward bound" by the way) who despite being poor and down on his luck, considers himself "King of the Road". Perhaps it was the jaunty tune rolling around in his head. And then I got on a train. Not your average train, mind you and not as a passenger. I was hired by a railroad to cook a meal and a half for a just-married couple on the way to their honeymoon in Montreal. The vintage car is an observation with a rear, open deck, which offered an incredible view of Lake Champlain on an Indian Summer afternoon. Since then, I've catered a sit-down dinner for 50 guests on what we call a "slow-moving" train and just last week we entertained about 50 guests for a "quick" cocktail party. This party was called quick because the trip itself lasted only about 1 hour between boarding in Port Jersey City and arriving in Staten Island. The only quick thing about prep for this party was that we had only two weeks for planning minus 4 days for Easter weekend. The heat was on! We had a total crew of 7 staff. We left our neighborhood at about 2pm for our hour trip to the yard or track where the train was parked. We loaded the cars and got busy for our guests' arrival at 6. They actually began boarding at about 5:15 but I had built time into the schedule and we still just kept rolling along with our plans. Besides planning, the real stress comes from the logistics of a train party. There is no room for storage. All of the equipment items that I had brought earlier in the week were in one lumpy spot and that mountain was growing with the carload of food and ice we brought with us. All items must be stowed, out of view, yet in a place where they can be accessed. Our hors d'oeuvres are all made from scratch. We served Arancini with Pomodoro Sauce (risotto Parmesan bites), Miniature Crab Cakes with Wasabi Cream, Miniature Beef Wellington, Spanikopita, Indonesian Shrimp Pancakes, Crudite, Cheese and Fruit, Cheesecake Lollipops, Assorted homemade cookies and Chocolate Covered Strawberries. Since I am accustomed to the idea of riding the rails, I forget how glamorous the idea is until other people remind me. After a successful ride it usually hits me. The effort my staff and I went to, the amazing system we've developed that we would be sunk without and the fact that we go where the universe takes us. For me, that is to the ports and terminals to feel the wind in my hair. Oven space is short. Counter space is almost non-existent. My usual galley (there were 3 cars on this trip, I worked from the most accessible and sensible kitchen which also happens to be my favorite) measures about 3 feet wide by about 5 feet long. Water on a train is not potable. Bring your own. Catering on a train is really hard and I'm a girl of means by no means at all, but I feel like I'm King of the Road.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Ready Yourself for Lent!

It just occurred to me that I'm sending mixed messages. Last blog was about persevering through your diet drought and now I'm promoting fastnachts, beignets and pancakes, oh my! If you’re a family that observes Lent by making one or more of your weekly meals meatless until the Easter holiday then that also means you get to welcome the solemn season with one more night of revelry in the form of Mardi Gras, Shrove Tuesday, or Fastnacht Day (Pennsylvania Dutch doughnuts). Café du Monde, the original French market coffee stand of New Orleans, Louisiana recommends using cottonseed oil to fry your beignets. They serve the small square doughnuts in orders of three that they lavishly sprinkle with powdered sugar. If the beignets do not puff properly, chances are your oil is too cold. This recipe is a close second to Café du Monde’s. The dough is a bit sticky, so be forewarned. You can also make these the day before and fry the next day. Buttermilk Beignets (from epicurious.com) Makes about 4 servings 3/4 cup whole milk 1 1/2 cups buttermilk 4 teaspoons active dry yeast 2 1/2 tablespoons sugar 3 1/2 cups bread flour plus extra for flouring work surface 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt Peanut oil for frying Confectioners' sugar for serving, as much as you think you'll need—then double that! Heat the milk in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until small bubbles form at the surface. Remove from the heat, add the buttermilk, and then pour into a stand mixer bowl. Whisk in the yeast and the sugar and set aside for 5 minutes. Add the flour, baking soda, and salt, and mix on low speed, using a dough hook, until the dry ingredients are moistened, 3 to 4 minutes. Increase the mixer speed to medium and continue mixing until the dough forms a loose ball and is still quite wet and tacky, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set the dough aside in a draft-free spot for 1 hour. Pour enough peanut oil into a large pot to fill it to a depth of 3 inches and bring to a temperature of 375°F over medium heat (this will take about 20 minutes). Line a plate with paper towels and set aside. Lightly flour your work surface and turn the dough out on it. Sprinkle the top of the dough with flour, gently press to flatten, fold it in half, and gently tuck the ends under to create a rough-shaped round. Dust again and roll the dough out into a ½-inch- to ¹/³ -inch-thick circle. Let the dough rest for 1 minute before using a chef's knife, a bench knife, or a pizza wheel to cut the dough into 1 1/2-inch squares (you should get about 48). Gently stretch a beignet lengthwise and carefully drop it into the oil. Add a few beignets (don't overcrowd them, otherwise the oil will cool down and the beignets will soak up oil and be greasy) and fry until puffed and golden brown, turning them often with a slotted spoon, for 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the prepared plate to drain while you cook the rest. Serve while still warm, buried under a mound of confectioners' sugar, with hot coffee on the side. Make ahead: The beignet dough can be made up to 8 hours in advance of frying. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and spray it with nonstick cooking spray. After cutting the dough, place the beignets on the paper and place another greased sheet of parchment paper, sprayed-side down, on top. Wrap the entire baking sheet with plastic wrap and refrigerate. The beignets can be fried straight from the refrigerator.

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

This is only a test...

I know there are countless people who made a New Year’s resolution to take better care of their bodies. I know it because the January issues of magazines and newspapers capitalize on the quest, which is usually to lose weight, whether the reason is to look better, or to feel better, or if we just believe that a smaller waistline will somehow make us better, more acceptable humans. I know it because the gym is full of folks I’ve never seen before and the trainers seem to have very full schedules on the gym floor. I also know, just from life experience that embracing new behaviors is challenging and can really take a toll on a person, especially in the dead of winter. Whose big idea was it to make winter the Diet Prime Time when the most prevalent fresh, seasonal items have muted, understated flavors compared to their warm-weather compatriots? It’s more than challenging to feel the pulse of your spirit broadcast, “I’m ready to jump and run and eat delicious fruits and vegetables!” only to swing the door wide open with fervor and be met with a grey day with temps in single digits with the prospect of cabbage for lunch. It’s downright discouraging. Well, I’m here to tell you that this is only a test. You can weather this storm. You’ve been through tougher tests than this one and bigger difficulties are probably on their way. If you can prevail over these trials, one at a time, then that’s what will make you better, not a smaller waistline. I’ve got a few tips for you (and a recipe that capitalizes on cabbage!). They’re not new, but they’re worth repeating, even if they come with a whacky perspective: • Develop your own team- including cheerleaders! Build your team with folks who know more about fitness than you and with people on the same journey as you. Have an inspiration and be an inspiration. Accountability, on different levels, works wonders. • Set reasonable, achievable goals- If this process is overwhelming, it’s up to you to diminish the threat in small doses. You deserve that. My most recent goal has nothing to do with a number on the scale or a tape measure. My goal is to sweat like Evelyn, my favorite fitness class instructor. I want to get the most of my workout, which means digging deep some days. You may choose a fitness goal or a food goal (such as finding recipes that are simple, nutritious and delicious) but make that goal your own. • Have a reward in mind- I have a stunning, eggplant-colored dress. Thank goodness the dress fits me beautifully. I refuse to reduce to fit into evening wear, but this garment inspires me to take better care of myself so that my heart is stronger for my next shopping trip when this dress outgrows me. • Just don’t give up. Here is the vegetarian version for Bounty Rice. You can replace the can of beans with ½-1 pound of ground beef or pork that’s been browned and then drained well. Bounty Rice 1 can of small white beans, drained (or your favorite bean) 1 cup onion, chopped 1 cup green pepper, chopped 2 cans diced tomatoes, drained 4 cups shredded cabbage 3 cups cooked rice (I use brown. Lundberg makes some really great blends) 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon dried basil ½ teaspoon garlic powder ½ cup sour cream (I use low fat) 1 cup mozzarella (I use low fat cheddar) Saute beans, onions and peppers until vegetables are just tender/crisp. Stir in all ingredients except the cheese. You can sprinkle the cheese on top and cover until melted OR you can pour ingredients into a greased 2-quart casserole and bake at 325 degrees for 30-45 minutes, top with cheese and let melt. I also individually portion into cup servings, top with cheese and freeze. Makes about 8 (1 cup) servings. Adapted from Simply in Season by Mary Beth Lind and Cathleen Hockman-Wert (World Community).

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Is it reality or is it fake?

I took a little break from producing food media. It wasn't on purpose...exactly. I thought, at the time that it was just the ways the stars aligned. Before the high-catering season of the holidays hit, I pre-recorded several radio shows, which also coincided with WNTI's move into a brand-new studio. Right before Christmas there were changes made in one of my writing contracts and then the holidays hit. AngelFood was too busy preparing and serving food for me to even want to think about writing/producing interesting, witty words to promote better planning, buying, cooking or eating. Almost a whole month passed, and all of a sudden, my exec producer at WNTI was barking up my tree..."We need your stuff by xxx!" That was one week, two large parties and two snowstorms away. It was just not gonna happen. But really, did I honestly think she would let me just fall off the face of the radio earth? Not her. I took myself to a quiet place and dug deep for a topic that interested me. Sometimes, very little about the food world interests me. Right now, I'm so busy enjoying other aspects of my life, such as getting physical exercise daily, eating in the name of fuel instead of lust, stringing sparkly beaded jewelry, and hanging with my family that there is very little passion or energy left for trendy dishes, whether on the page, on the air, or on my plate. I chose to interview Chef Eric LeVine, a buddy from a popular professional caterer's internet forum. I admire him, as so many do, for his trailblazing level of creativity and his generosity in helping others with ideas and answers. His newer claim to fame is that he was a contestant on the Food Network's competition "Chopped". I don't get a chance to view television often and when I do, I usually do not choose shows about food (it's a great big world out there!). So, after Eric agreed to be interviewed for my radio segment, I had to find the episode "Prove it on the Plate" in order to conduct a thorough interview. I found it on itunes. I love reality TV. So many naysayers will point out that the shows are edited and I appreciate that. My contention is that there are things you cannot fake and editors cannot change. If the words do not come out of your mouth, they cannot be recorded. If you body language isn't displayed, it cannot be filmed. The editors may move it around for a more dramatic story, but the heart of the actor is clearly on display. I knew from reading Eric LeVine's posts regarding cooking and catering that I would like this guy. Then I knew from watching his "Chopped" episode that his radio debut on WNTI would be fantastic. After I actually got him on the phone, I knew we'd end up being friends for a long time. So far, I'm winning two out of three. And I'm willing to bet we'll be friends for a long time, too. He took me to a place filled with hope (he's a cancer survivor and he just opened a restaurant). He took me to a place of inspiration (he pulled off an apparently delicious sauce with Bosc pears over New Zealand mussels). But best of all, he reminded me that his and my world is a place of belief. Belief that hard work, an attitude of gratefulness and graciousness, with a heaping dose of talent can provide a lifetime of rewards, even if you need to take a little break, here and there. And you can't fake that.